Beach Blanket Babylon Shoreditch offers a break from the painfully trendy bars of Brick Lane and Shoreditch. It brings a touch of glamour to Bethnal Green Road, albeit with a style that's more West End than East End.

The Venue
Located along Bethnal Green Road, Beach Blanket Babylon Shoreditch is hard to miss. On a road devoid of much in the way of overt glamour, the club stands out like a beacon. A black patterned frontage with little in the way of a sign announces its presence. Up a couple of steps and through a large doorway guarded by ever present bouncers will see you thrust into a world far removed from the East End just outside.

A large central bar with attractive foliage is the first area to greet you. Seating encircles the bar in the form of dark bar stools, leather booths and dining tables, spilling over from the main dining area. Attractive modern art on the wall mixed with a mishmash of style brings it all together. A large beach sign above an open kitchen, a sign declaring no swimming, a statuette complete with a white feather boa and a huge wooden clock with interesting numbering are peppered around the space. Up a couple of steps, separated from the bar by a divide, is the dining room - a more refined area with attractive tables complete with beautiful tableware. The decor here is neutral without being boring and attractive light fixtures hang low above the tables to add interest to the space.

Downstairs is the main cocktail bar and dance floor where the partying takes place. An attractive basement bar with a bigger party atmosphere than upstairs, be sure to take a close look at the art on the wall on the way down the stairs. Is it sperm swimming out of the wall? It’s hard to tell. It’s certainly a talking point. Past a large bar is the VIP area with comfortable leather booth seating.

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere at Beach Blanket Babylon Shoreditch is dependent upon where in the sprawling club you are. The bar is refined whilst being fun with an underlying party atmosphere. Pumping music is played out from downstairs, which gets louder as the night wears on, and sets the tone for the dining area as it takes on a distinct party edge at the weekend. Earlier in the evening and during the week, it’s a more refined affair. Downstairs pulls in a club crowd looking to let loose on the dance floor.

The staff comprise an eclectic mix of all nationalities, all of whom are very attractive and walk around with a self assured attitude. The crowd itself isn’t typically Shoreditch - there are no Converse trainers or skinny jeans here (unless coupled with beautiful strappy tops, of course). However the code isn’t as strict as up west, trainers and ripped jeans are allowed.

The Food
Beach Blanket Babylon Shoreditch has reacted to the recession by stepping away from the previous fine dining edge to its menu, instead offering a more balanced selection of burgers, traditional pub food with an upmarket twist and a few dishes more reminiscent of its past selection. Especially popular is the no carb burger for £11.50.

For starters, pan-seared scallops (£9) are well presented on a rectangular plate with three plump scallops resting neatly atop small mounds of polenta. Unfortunately, the scallops are a little overdone with a consistency tending towards rubbery and the polenta is served cold, which only highlights the lukewarm scallops - it would be a more satisfying dish if it was served warmer. However, the spinach puree and tomato coulis work well to highlight the flavours of the scallops thanks to the slight sweetness they bring to the dish. Alternatively, the pea and shallot ravioli (£7.50) is poorly presented - a brown slop being an unappealing sight. However, it’s actually rather delicious with a light tomato beurre blanc sauce with a pleasant tang that doesn’t overpower the delicate pea and shallot filling of the ravioli. The ravioli itself is perfectly textured with a very slight al dente bite. Micro basil atop the dish helps to add a dimension of freshness.

For mains, the yellow fin tuna loin (£14) is well presented with the griddled fish showing the char marks of its cooking, sat atop a colourful mix of roasted vegetables. The tuna is ever so slightly on the dry side although it is meaty and tastes fresh. The vegetables are perfectly cooked, being soft and juicy with tomatoes, peppers and courgettes providing an ideal, slightly sweet accompaniment to the tuna. Alternatively, the pork belly (£11) is a disappointment. The pork arrives as three thin slivers, is overly tough and, instead of a crisp crackling, the fat is more like gristle with an unpleasant chewy texture. A side of garlic mashed potato (£3.50) is delicious, being creamy and rich with a delightful garlic aftertaste that works well with the dish. The accompanying spring greens are well cooked, light and fresh and are certainly appetising but the large chunks of glazed apple are so overly sweet you’d expect them to be found in an apple pie.

For dessert, the white chocolate panna cotta (£5.50) is delicious, being creamy and rich with a delightful consistency that’s firm yet smooth. The Eton Mess (£5.50), however, is a poor example of the popular dessert. Appearing in a large glass, the cream on top is rich and creamy but what few meringue pieces you can find are overly hard, tending towards chewy. The consistency is too sloppy and the chunks of strawberry overpower the dish with an acidity that drowns out any sweetness.

The Drink
The drink menu focuses mainly on cocktails, with a succinct selection coming in at the £8.50 mark with Champagne options costing just over a tenner. Le Poire Martini (Grey Goose pear, lemon juice, vanilla essence, Chambord and crushed pear; £8.50) comes beautifully presented in a large martini glass with two slices of pear as garnish. The vodka and Chambord provide a pleasant alcoholic kick that complements the delicate sweetness of the pear well.

Also excellent is the Classic Champagne Cocktail (Angostura, Cognac, brown sugar; £10.50) with a strong aftertaste of the cognac that’s pleasantly counteracted by the sweetness of the sugar and the sparkle of the prosecco. However, the mango twist on the Porn Star Martini makes the popular cocktail with an accompanying shot of Champagne too sweet. The consistency is slightly thick courtesy of the mango and has an overpowering glucose flavour that drowns out any hint of alcohol. Diluting it with the Champagne helps, but not enough to hide its sickly sweetness.

If you’re dining, there’s a good selection of wine, ranging in price from £16-£54 a bottle to £152-£2450 for the fine wine selection. There are a couple of rose choices and a selection of Champagne costing £39.50-£400. There are also a handful of dessert wines and ports, although most of these are only available by the bottle (£36-£790). The 2007 Macon Villages Cave de L’Aurore Burgundy (£28.50) is a little on the insipid side with a rather bland flavour given the price point, although it’s certainly easy to drink and goes better when sampled with food, especially sea food.

The Last Word
Purist Shoreditch types may not appreciate what Beach Blanket Babylon Shoreditch is trying to do. However, those not into the trendy scene looking for a bar or club perhaps better suited to the West End will like this Bethnal Green Road haven.

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