Standing almost ostentatiously on the former site of the Grove Tavern, Grand Union’s newest venture has every reason to be proud as it brings lucky Camberwell locals a very fine local boozer.

The Venue
The location itself has always been a little isolated, halfway up the Grove and something of a stroll from both the high street and Denmark Hill station, it used to be that only the nearby denizens would deem its aged interior and sloping pool table worth a visit. However, the new and vastly improved incarnation at 26 Camberwell Grove will have plenty of visitors from further afield.

The exterior is almost overly grand, firstly due to the fine Georgian terrace in which the pub is housed, and secondly because of a strangely hubristic pillared entrance flanked by palm trees and parasols. This slightly disconcerting Grecian introduction is quickly forgotten when it dawns that inside is quite the opposite, full, as it is, of nooks, crannies, leather booths, tucked-away-tables and a really rather ridiculous amount of mismatched stuff. You could probably while away a whole afternoon looking at all the bits and pieces collected within this place, with 80s’ neon signs, chintzy chandeliers, retro lamps, theatre curtains, watercolours, posters, pot plants, lampshades and mirrors just a little teaser of what lies within this fascinating, cosy venue.

The Atmosphere
The overriding impression you get is one of warmth and comfort, which is primarily due to the excellent job the designers have done. There’s plenty of scope to get lost in a corner or hide behind the high wall seating of one of the booths but if you do feel like striking up conversation at the bar you’re more than likely to meet a trendy young professional, as this place is full of them. Which is obviously no bad thing, but overall there's a healthy mixture of people, all made to feel welcome by what seems to be a bustling crowd of friendly folk in good spirits both behind the bar and on the barstools.

The Food
It’s simple stuff done well, with salads, sides and a few other bits and bobs complementing what’s predominantly a burger-based menu. There are enough options to keep the veggies happy, with falafel burgers, goat’s cheese burgers and salads being the pick, but if you really want to enjoy this place, be a carnivore. One burger that’s definitely worth trying is the lamb burger (£6.95), a huge, well-seasoned lamb patty that’s immaculately cooked, housed within a sweet, lightly toasted bap and served with a delicious, sweet and minty relish. Just edging it however, is the fired earth burger (£7.95), another healthy lump of meat gently spiced with chilli powder and served with piquant cheddar, hot jalapenos, rocket and a sweet, spicy sauce. The fat, lightly salted and superbly textured chips (£2.95) are excellent, even if there could be more, whilst onion rings (£2.75) are similarly shy, despite being every bit as impressive thanks to a light batter and a refreshing lack of grease. Desserts rotate so ask the staff, but if you’re lucky you might get the very tasty apple crunch (£4.75) that isn’t very crunchy, but is pretty good. The exquisitely soft and creamy vanilla ice cream sits next to a little apple pie with buttery pastry, soft apple and a layer of very sweet caramel sauce.

The Drink
Again, it’s simple stuff done well, with a solid wine list that caters equally well for both the frugal and the slightly more extravagant, rising from a fruity and perfectly adequate house Chardonnay at £12.95 through to a bottle of Dom Perignon at £125.00. Perhaps the best place to go however - and to which most seem to do - is straight to the cocktail list, as there’s (for the most part) some excellent work going on behind the bar. Whilst the Old Fashioned (£6.95) has a touch too much ice and not quite enough bitters, The Bramble (£6.95) is sublime. It’s a perfectly measured mix of gin, Chambord, fresh blackberry and lemon, sweetened to perfection with a tiny bit of sugar and garnished with a plump and healthy looking blackberry to create a refreshing, seriously sippable concoction. The best though, has to be a spot on Bloody Mary (£6.95) with perfect piquancy from the Tabasco, pepper, Worcester sauce and horseradish, superbly countered by refreshing tomato and that unmistakable kick from the vodka.

The Last Word
Grand Union have good form for this kind of transformation but the Camberwell location surely has to be one of its best yet, filling an already impressive building with a menu, staff and clientele every bit as interesting as all that strange stuff scattered around.

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