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The Londoner's Guide to London
07 September 2008
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Hedges and Butler

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3 New Burlington Mews,
Mayfair,
London,
W1B 4QB

0871 971 4182 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byJudy Johnson17/12/2007
If it’s style you’re after, look no further than Youcef Aden’s members club in the heart of the city. Plush decor and the pretty faces of London’s finest surround you in this exclusive yet comfortable setting.

The Venue
Perfectly located for its expected clientele, Hedges and Butler has an exquisite interior if nothing else. A former wine cellar where the Royal family hid their art during the Blitz, the club consists of five areas; the Salon, Le Passage, Canvas, the Apotheca Bar and, of course, the Queen’s room. Homely terracotta colourings compliment the antique-style furnishings that you may recognise from your grandma’s house, whereas cage-like doors to the various rooms infer a VIP status for those who lounge inside. With a small library of books lining Le Passage, and large, dark life drawings displayed in Canvas, all that’s missing is a professor and a log fire to complete its air of excellence.

The Atmosphere
Created for the arty media types of London, Hedges and Butler oozes pretentiousness, which contradicts its homely appeal. Though some may simply stumble across this cavern of luxury and decide to venture in (if the owner allows), regulars include members who either pay £150 a year if they work in the creative industry or, as the website cunningly puts it, everyone else who pays £500; not forgetting those who wish to dedicate a lifetime of custom for a mere £5000. That sums it up, so to speak. However, if you want glamour as well as comfort and don’t mind the airs and graces of those around you, Hedges and Butler does deliver.

The Food
This is where someone has definitely got it right; surprisingly affordable prices, start at £3 for anything from baguettes, soup of the day and salads to oysters, grilled steak or delicious platters, serving any appetite for lunch in extravagance.

If you’re after something a bit more substantial, there’s also a fine selection of starters and mains for an evening meal. Also surprisingly well priced, starters all come in at under a fiver and include a selection of salads, bruchetta, and tomato and mozzarella. Mains continue this cheap and cheerful menu, all coming in at under a tenner and include such, perhaps rather unrefined, dishes as steak or chicken with fries, mussels with chips and langoustine salad. Fabulous value if a little uninspired.

The Drink
Sumptuous cocktails on the same reasonable menu are £10 for Champagne varieties, or £7 for the Long and Fruity types. Worthy of particular mention is Dr Evil, a powerful drink made up of black sambucca, chambord, pineapple juice, grapefruit juice with a blackberry garnish – a couple of those and you’ll be on the floor! If you prefer some champers in your drink then try the Champagne Cosmopolitan made up of vodka, elderflower cordial, cranberry juice and Champagne.

If you’re not a lover of cocktails then there’s also a fine wine selection. Whites and reds are available ranging from £25-£75 a bottle, although, remarkably considering how fashionable it is, there are no roses on the menu. However, there is a great selection of Champagne ranging from Perrier Jouet Brut for £50 to Cristal at £450 a bottle.

Although there are no beers here, there is a great choice of spirits, including premium varieties. Available by the bottle should you be so inclined, the most expensive will make a hole in the fattest of wallets – the Grey Goose Jeroboam vodka coming in at a whopping £2200 a bottle.

The Last Word
A fairly inexpensive taste of the high life, Hedges and Butler is worth a look at least once if only to explore the mysterious passageways. Love it or hate it, the club is drenched in royalty and exudes sophistication that perhaps only those ‘creative types’ will relish, but at least ‘everyone else’ can afford to indulge too.
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