96-98 Pentonville Road,
Islington,
London,
N1 9JB
(020) 7837 5371
The ViewLondon Review
An edgy live music venue masquerading as a traditional pub with an American theme sets the scene for the latest string to Ed and Tom Martin’s bow. Hijacking the kitchen, they take an interesting new direction from their previous undertakings, which include such praised establishments as The Gun, Empress of India, The Botanist and The Cadogan.
The Venue
The Lexington is a bold, brash corner-positioned pub located along Pentonville Road, away from the main throng of nearby Upper Street. Looking for all intents and purposes like any other traditional pub, with a bold red colour scheme and canopies overhanging a few outdoor benches, it hides a wealth of secrets within.
Upon entering, you’ll immediately get a feel for the musical routes of this pub, punctuated by a vast upstairs live music space with a capacity for 200 gig goers. The muso decorative flourishes include flyers and posters on the wall declaring upcoming events, a raised DJ booth in the corner and a large table covered with further flyers. Otherwise, this is a pub through and through. A long wooden bar is a centrepiece rather than an afterthought and shows off the huge array of bourbons on offer. The space feels airy thanks to large windows across two walls and a high white ceiling; however, it’s kept cosy and even opulent thanks to a few warming features.
A huge white chandelier hangs in the centre of the ceiling, shedding its dim light across the pub. Heavy red drapes hang boldly in the windows and throne-like sofas sit in amongst more traditional wooden tables and chairs and leather booths. Finally, an animal skull on one wall adds a kooky touch not necessarily in keeping with the rest of the decor. It’s eclectic without being try hard, as if The Lexington rolled out of bed one evening and emerged looking cool.
The Atmosphere
The Lexington strikes the balance between friendly local and cool live music venue with seeming ease, helped along in no small part by the friendly, warm staff who perfectly fit in with the ethos of the place.
The music on offer varies drastically but includes the kind of festivals, edgy live music and bands you’ll more commonly expect at larger gig venues. Rock ’n’ roll bingo, anyone? They do that, too. It’s an eclectic mix reflected in the faces of the cool crowd of Islington locals that drink here. That said, you can happily pop in for a pint and not feel out of place, even if it is full of trendy rockers.
The Food
With Ed and Tom Martin at the helm in the kitchen, it’s not surprising that the food at The Lexington is good quality, albeit on a much simpler scale than at the pair’s other establishments. The menu comprises simple pub grub - American food with a British twist to fit in with the ethos of the pub. Think steaks, burgers and BBQ ribs, most of which are available for well under a tenner. Gastro pub food this is not.
A generous bowl of macaroni cheese (£5) is a simple, well put together dish with a good balance of flavours. The macaroni is well cooked and generous and the cheese is creamy and rich without being heavy. Grilled cheese on top provides a pleasant texture to the soft gooey cheese beneath. A side order of garlic bread (£2.50) is a good accompaniment - two pieces of slightly oily garlic baguette with a rich butter and pleasant crunch. Alternatively, Cumberland sausages and mash (£8.50) arrives as three plump, well spiced sausages on a large bed of creamy, fluffy mashed potato with a drizzle of gravy to bring it all together.
Although there are no set starters, there is a selection of desserts (£5). Again, the American theme is evident with key lime pie, brownie and New York style cheesecake. The cheesecake has a pleasant, firm texture with a strong underlying creaminess that melts in the mouth. Alternatively, sticky toffee pudding is gooey, sweet and decadent, well balanced by a creamy vanilla ice cream that stops the dish from becoming too sickly.
The Drink
A huge selection of American bourbons takes centre stage at The Lexington, ranging from £3.70-£20 a shot depending on how rare a bottle it is. There’s also a good choice of bourbon based cocktails if you’re not sure about drinking it neat. The Julep, Old Fashioned and Manhattan are three favourites, costing a reasonable £6-£6.75.
Beer is another big selling point of the bar. Strongbow, Amstel, Kronenbourg, Heineken, Guinness and a rotating guest ale are all available on draught, alongside the more unique Blue Moon with a flavour of orange and coriander. There’s also a good choice of bottled beer, with some unusual choices including Dead Guy ale, Flying Dog and Liberty ale priced at £3.70-£4.50.
If you prefer the grape to the grain then there’s a decent selection of red and white wine with two bottles of rose and four sparkling varieties. The Tarquino Malbec (£5.30 a glass) is recommended for its rich, dark plum flavours with hints of chocolate and berry.
The Last Word
In theory, an American theme pub with a traditional English twist, edgy live music and Ed and Tom Martin’s influence in the kitchen really shouldn’t work as a concept. However, it all pulls together to produce an eclectic but well balanced watering hole with a difference. Worth checking out.
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