A relaxed Chelsea affair with a theme that doesn’t stray into the realms of cheesiness, Admiral Codrington is affordable by Sloane standards.

The Venue
The Admiral Codrington is a very well put together pub with a separate dining area. The pub itself, which is the first area you come across upon entering, is steadfastly traditional with lots of woods and plenty in the way of seating, surrounding all sides of the square island bar that stands rather proudly in the middle of the room. Just be wary of the hidden trapdoor in the floor that opens up every so often as the staff head to the beer cellar – although they rope it off, it can be rather disconcerting when it opens without warning.

Stepping through the pub is an altogether different space reserved soley for dining. Here, the decor is white, bright and light – with pale wooden floors, cream walls and extremely comfortable high-backed sofa seating that runs along the entire wall. Otherwise, there are a couple of booths. And the theme is most definitely nautical with a ship’s wheel on the wall and paintings of fish. However, you’ll barely notice them once you spot the glass ceiling, complete with retractable cover. With twinkling lights of varied colours, it’s certainly the centrepiece to the space – and a very nice one at that. And, in the summer, you can enjoy a small alfresco area, too.

The Atmosphere
This is Chelsea dahling and so you can expect the moneyed and the beautiful to be out in force. However, the atmosphere is laid back, mainly thanks to the efforts of the staff, who do their utmost to make sure that the demands of the clientele are met at all times, all whilst smiling genuine smiles. Just how they manage this is anyone’s guess, but manage it they do.

The Food
The food at the Admiral Codrington is excellent and the prices are in keeping with the area. For starters, the foie gras parfait, sauternes jelly and brioche (£8.95) is a delight, arriving in a rustic style with the parfait in a clear jar. Its rich, creamy texture rolls around the mouth delightfully and goes particularly well on the slightly sweet brioche, all of which is complemented by the tang of the jelly. It’s a lesson in less is more. Alternatively, the simple burrata, marinated peppers and basil oil (£8.75) is also excellent. The burrata is creamy and rich but the portion is just right so it doesn’t fill you up too much before the main course. The peppers and oil are strong enough to complement the cheese without overpowering it. Again, the kitchen shows restraint to produce simple, well balanced dishes.

For the main courses (£13.50-£28), the turbot doesn’t warn of the dangerously sharp bones that pepper it, but it’s an exemplary fish dish that is meaty, perfectly cooked and packed full of flavour. And fish is something they do very well here (as you might expect given the nautical theme), with the Admiral’s cod, tomatoes, mushrooms and herb crust also showcasing the chef’s skills. Who knew cod could be so light? The herb crust is well pitched to lift the flavours without bogging down the delicate dish and throw in a side of creamy mashed potatoes and you have an excellent dish. They are rounded up by a substantial cheese board and a choice of desserts, including a delicious and decadent chocolate brownie. Gooey, rich, shockingly bad for you. It’s right on the money.

The Drink
Although they don’t ignore the beer choice, with a few real ales thrown in like Deuchars IPA, it is really the wine selection that shines here, particularly if you’re dining. It’s very well balanced, covering a range of old and new world bottles including a choice of regions, grapes and vintages. And the prices are very good at £16-£60. Of course, this is where the rich come out to play so there are also a few more select bottles that range from £55-£499 a bottle for anyone looking to really splash the cash, and it goes to show that they’ve considered and catered for every type of punter who may drink or dine here.

The Last Word
The Admiral Codrington certainly impresses in the kitchen, but it’s good to see they’ve not ignored their pub heart. Worth a visit if you’re in the area.

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