Following a devastating bomb blast in 1999, The Admiral Duncan has become one of London’s best known gay institutions, representing the Soho gay scene’s defiance in the face of adversity. Sadly, however, the pub’s current state falls some distance short of its admirable reputation.

The Venue
With its gaudy pink and black frontage sitting proudly on Old Compton Street, passers-by can be in no doubt that The Admiral Duncan is right at the heart of the capital’s gay village.

Essentially, the venue is composed of one smallish bar area, with very little seating and is desperately in need of a good overhaul. Exposed brickwork and dark-stained wood that may have looked good in the glow of Millennium fireworks seems grubby and dated almost a decade later, while the lack of proper seating makes it difficult to relax while juggling your belongings with your white wine spritzer. Soho’s obligatory video jukebox system is pretty fun, though, and on warmer nights the entire front of the venue is thrown open to the street outside, which does give the pub a welcoming edge on some of its snootier neighbours.

The Atmosphere
The Admiral Duncan tends to pull in a fairly mixed crowd of scene queens and passing trade (emphasis on the trade), who can give the place quite a cruisy atmosphere, particularly when they congregate around the main doors. Because of its location, the bar is always busy and you may find it difficult to get served when the room fills up on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. The crowd is generally friendly enough, and the bar staff don’t have as much attitude as you usually get in this part of town. The music is fun, too, (although you’d sometimes be forgiven for believing that the jukebox got stuck on Atomic Kitten back in 2002 and they just never got around to fixing it), making this a good place to meet friends if you’re warming up for a big gay night out.

The Drink
At The Admiral Duncan, you’ll probably find yourself shelling out a little more for drinks than you would hope to, particularly considering the fact it was last decorated when the UK standard was being set by Changing Rooms. A pint or a glass of wine should set you back just under £4, and a single measure of spirit slightly higher, most of which can be attributed to the pub’s location in the centre of town. However, there is a good range of standard draught and bottled beers and a reasonable wine list, as well as special offers like three shots for £6 at certain times.

The Last Word
With its fantastic location at London’s gay epicentre, it wouldn’t take much to give The Admiral Duncan the makeover it deserves. It’s still worth a look as an important part of Soho history, but shortcomings in the venue’s decor and drinks prices mean you may find yourself wanting to move on after the first round. Perhaps even sooner if it’s your round.

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