Well established in the building that formerly housed the UK’s birth, marriage and death certificates, The Admiralty rooms have no view of the river or even the Strand. Any interest has to be gained from the food actually served there.

The Venue
Although it is very grand from the outside with an imposing piazza that in winter serves as an ice rink, Somerset House would appear to be an ideal venue for a posh restaurant. Once you have found your way inside – there’s very little outside to indicate that there a dining room inside – the restaurant is more or less hidden unless you know where you are going.

The Atmosphere
The main room is rather like a club or like being back at school. It does have the air of a refectory about it, although it is elegantly decorated, with seafaring pictures on the walls and some amusing chandeliers in the shape of galleons setting sail across the room, hanging from the high ceilings. Being a tall room, any sounds are liable to echo but it’s not too much of a bother, or perhaps only when the restaurant is full. There are also two separate party rooms.

The Food
Prices are fairly high with starters at £6.50 to £10, main courses from £12.50 to £18.50 with extra vegetables at £3.50 and desserts around the £6 mark. Here you are likely to find both regional and modern French dishes such as terrine of foie gras with duck confit, carpaccio of yellowfin tuna, and pan-fried pigeon breast wrapped in pancetta, for starters. Fillet of pork topped with brie, Finnan haddock risotto and grilled rump of English lamb are just some of the mains.

Presentation is just as important as the food itself. The grilled asparagus starter comes arranged in a neat pile on the plate with a hollandaise sauce accompaniment, faultless in both appearance and ingredients. The fresh Highland salmon tartar comes as a shallow round tower of minced fish combined with the oil and herbs to make a very satisfying course which has plenty of flavour. Served with a lemon-dressed herb salad and dark rye toast, it’s appetising indeed.

Mains include marinated fillet of hake with pak choi and fillet of pork wrapped in pancetta. The first, a welcome and underused fish, has a good, strong flavour which is enhanced by the addition of a shiitake mushroom compote, miso beurre blanc and the Chinese greens The combination of the pork and the bacon is an inspired touch as both lend flavour to each other. The pork meat is particularly fine, very soft and tender to the touch of the fork.

For dessert, the pear and mascarpone creme brulee is a good choice. There is a school of thought that wonders why chefs bother to flavour a creme brulee as it’s a perfect pudding just in plain old vanilla. Here it’s served in a wide, shallow dish with a thin caramel crust and barely any flavour of pear, just good and creamy rich. The white chocolate mousse is a worthy companion with a dark mint chocolate centre and a decoration of Chantilly cream: a deliciously smooth customer.

The Drink
The wine list is fairly eclectic with a good selection of bottles from £18 and some wines by the glass from £4.50. Be aware though, that the bill can escalate when it comes to drinks, especially if you are paying nearly £11 for two gins & tonic and £6.50 for two coffees.

The Last Word
The Admiralty certainly offers good food even if the venue itself lacks atmosphere and warmth. To eat economically here try the pre-theatre menu or the menu of the day, while brunch on Saturday and Sunday has some cheaper dishes too.

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