All Star Lanes has already made a name for itself as a champion of boutique bowling in Bloomsbury. Now, it’s serving up another slick portion of supersized fun which is already proving a hit with Bayswater locals and neighbouring Notting Hillbillies.

The Venue
When you think of Whiteleys Shopping Centre chances are you won’t think it’s the epicentre of cool. In fact, it’s far more likely that you’ll conclude it’s so mainstream as to be mediocre but pay attention - its mediocrity is what makes the All Star Lanes location in Whiteleys’ basement all the more brilliant. Let’s face it when you’re wearing the equivalent to clown’s shoes (even specially designed, glossy black Velcro versions) it’s time to start wholeheartedly embracing bowling’s tacky associations albeit with a stylish twist.

Whilst the bowling lanes are a big draw, the restaurant and bar are equally great looking and more than hold their own as destination venues in their own right. Pink and orange retro patterned wallpaper runs the length of the wall beside the two furthest bowling lanes, the bar is a cosy haven of dark red Chesterfield style seating, low lighting and dark wood and the diner style restaurant is airy and bright with booth-style leather seating and great views of the bowling lanes directly behind it.

The Atmosphere
Warm and friendly, the interiors may look effortlessly trendy but the staff will go to great lengths to ensure you feel at home. Beaming smiles greet you on the reception as you trade your civilian footwear for bowling shoes, and continue through to the bar and restaurant areas where staff kitted out in Fifties style uniforms are impressively eager to help. As for your fellow bowlers, you’re all in it together so prepare for sympathetic smiles if you’re having a bad run or if you never get anything less than a strike it’s the perfect opportunity to share your tips with admiring first timers. A smooth soundtrack of lilting soul and funk helps to soothe any frayed egos though and the eyewateringly strong house speciality cocktails don’t do a bad job either.

The Food
All Star Lanes in Bayswater isn’t just about experiencing the fun of the bowling alleys of your youth without the snivelling, screaming kids and skanky clown shoes though. The restaurant is a destination in its own right with its soft brown leather booth seating, black and white tiled floors and retro styled staff. Service is quick and friendly and the portions supersized. Particularly recommended for starters are the steamed clams with white wine, fresh chilli and herbs served in a glossy orange Le Creuset dish, perfectly tender with just the right amount of kick from the chillis; and the main course sized salt and pepper popcorn squid, tender rings of squid in crunchy batter without a hint of grease which arrive in a kitsch red plastic basket lined with greaseproof paper.

And if you think the starter portions are large, wait till you get to the main courses and desserts. The Surf and Turf consists of two gigantic tiger prawns and an 8oz sirloin steak which comes with a choice of sauces including green peppercorn, Bearnaise and lobster and tarragon although the tangy bourbon barbecue sauce is well worth trying if you want to combine a traditional sauce with a twist. The rib option is just as tasty, served on a platter rather than a plate and enough to feed a very hungry small army. The meat is tender and melts off the bone whilst the accompanying mashed potato is delightfully light and creamy. If you have any room for puddings, opt for the banana split (although with its neverending layers of banana, ice cream, whipped cream and caramel sauce it’s worth bearing in mind that it’s sized for two) or the dense yet gooey double chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream.

The Drink
As with the restaurant, the bar is well worth a visit even if you’re not a fan of bowling. Beer monsters can tuck into a bucket of beer (5 bottles of Coors) for £15 but if you consider yourself a connoisseur you’d be better off with a glass of the Brooklyn lager, a rich gold coloured liquid combining both malty and floral flavours and styled on Brooklyn’s pre-Prohibition all malt beers. If you’d rather keep your wits about you during the day the shakes and malts are like meals in their own right – a creamy blend of home made ice cream, fresh fruit and a splash of flavouring with malt optional – try peanut butter and banana or key lime and banana for true U.S style drinking – opt for one of their alcoholic shakes later in the evening.

Cocktails and bourbons are where the bar truly comes into its own, however. The All Star Julep is based on one of the world’s first cocktails and is served in a metal tumbler, blending Buffalo Trace Bourbon, mint leaves and cane sugar syrup over plenty of crushed ice – cold and refreshing but strong enough to bring tears to your eyes.

The Last Word
All Star Lanes in Bayswater got off to a flying start and has already played host to Natalie Imbruglia, Kylie Minogue, Jemima Khan, Rosario Dawson, Frank Lampard and Christian Slater. What makes it stand out however, is the impressively friendly service and the opportunity to enjoy delicious food, drink and fun bowling action in one fantastic looking venue, no matter who you are.

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