Live out your Big Lebowski fantasies at a place that makes it cool to bowl again.

The Venue
The Bloomsbury branch of All Star Lanes is a short stroll from Holborn station, within the attractive setting of Bloomsbury. An unlikely location for an American bowling lane and one that belies the authentic setting within. Walking past marble clad, opulent buildings the garish sign belies its entryway, a metal staircase leading into the earth.

Entering the narrow space you’ll be greeted by the (free) cloakroom and ushered inwards. Walking past bowling memorabilia like balls and uniforms with the ASL logo, all of which are available to buy and some of which are displayed in glimmering glass casing like a cool retro museum, you’ll spy the reception area where you get the dreaded bowling shoes. However, this is BOUTIQUE bowling, and the sleek, designer black shoes are just the beginning of the experience.

Walking past into the main space, it opens out to reveal a small seating area of high stools and two tables for those watching the action. Five bowling lanes lay sandwiched together, although the sleek design, All Star Lanes logos and decorative flourish make the relatively small space seem much larger. Mirrors line the far right hand wall, opening up the area. Retro touches and the all important element of cool that make this more Saturday Night Fever than a tacky bowling lane add to the ambience. A large wall with a Marilyn Monroe style figure in hotpants seductively bending over to retrieve a bowling ball with the words ‘let ‘em roll’ inscribed beside her sets the scene, as do several large Big Lebowski images. Funky peach wallpaper with a retro pattern completes the decor. The multicoloured bowling balls add a splash of colour.

To the left of the main bowling area sits the dining room. Diminutive in stature, the small space is well utilised. To the left sits comfortable leather booths with an American diner feel. Low hanging granny lamps add a comforting glow and the simple wooden tables are jazzed up courtesy of red and white chequered napkins. To the left of the long, narrow area are smaller, more sandwiched in tables with the added benefit of overlooking the bowling lanes if you want to compare your skills with the current players. It’s a comfortable, funky space for dining on American grub.

Moving up past the dining room, the neon red sign declaring, simply 'bar' indicates what lies in the room beyond. A large ceiling alcove is filled with disco balls, adding glimmer to the overwhelming red and terracotta colours of the space. A decent sized bar sits to the right, and large red leather seating areas dominate the area, creating a comfortable but upbeat bar that perfectly fits the ethos of the venue.

The Atmosphere
Fun. Fun. And a bit more fun. People come to All Star Lanes to have a giggle with their mates in a place where bowling is seen as more Big Lebowski than a teenage Friday night on the tiles. Everyone is there to have a laugh, from colleagues indulging in a spot of team building to groups of friends and even dates. The chilled out nature of the venue is further enforced by the smiling, friendly and efficient staff, resplendent in their neat All Star Lanes retro uniforms.

At the weekends, a late licence keeps the doors open until well into the wee hours, the lanes dimming to emit a deep neon blue light with flashing lasar lighting giving the impression of bowling in a club. Music pumps in the background, a pleasing selection of retro and eighties tunes to get the crowd singing along, which they merrily do.

The Food
The food at All Star Lanes is traditional American diner style grub. The quality varies from excellent to poor, but they do the basics exceptionally well. The selection is varied and the funky menu displays it well. A starter of Maryland fishcake at a not inexpensive £7.50 arrives as a crisp breaded fishcake with rich crab meat beneath. A simple leafy salad joins the crab cake and a small pot of a rather heavy mayonnaise doesn’t complement the fresh fish flavours. However, for the price it’s a little lacking. The chicken gumbo soup at £5 is a real disappointment. The insipid soup is light on flavour with cheap-tasting cubes of chicken and vegetables sitting at the bottom of the watery liquid. A disappointment.

Where the diner really comes into its own are with the simple, traditionally American main courses. The burger is well priced at £8.50, although you have to buy sides as an extra. The large bap appears with a heavy patty, cooked perfectly to specification; the meat is delightfully pink in the middle for a medium-rare option. Full of flavour, it isn’t overpowered by the lettuce, gherkins and beef tomato that accompanies the burger and a Thousand Island style sauce that comes on the side is tangy with a sweet aftertaste that brings it all together. Sides of stringy, crisp and flavoursome fries arrive as a generous portion for £3. Also recommended is the succotash (£3.50) a bowl of well cooked green beans in a rich cream sauce with strips of smoky bacon. An excellent dish.

Alternatively, the 8oz New York striploin is an expensive option for £18.50 but its quality is undeniable. A large slab of perfectly cooked meat arrives, simply presented on a large plate with a sauce of your choice. Cooked to specification, a medium rare steak is a vibrant pink in the middle with a minimal amount of fat running along its outer edge. A tender, well cooked steak, it’s an excellent choice. Whipped mash as a side (£3) is creamy and light, a generous helping that goes well with the rich flavours of the steak. Highly recommended is the three cheese macaroni cheese (£3.50), a large portion for the small price tag. Well cooked macaroni that isn’t too hard or stodgy is complemented by a hefty covering of melted cheese, the three cheeses combining to provide creamy mouthfuls that delight the tastebuds.

For dessert, the Oreo cheesecake (£5.50) is a large sliver of creamy vanilla cheesecake on a thick dark Oreo flavoured base that works really well with the blueberry sauce on the side. The baked Alaska (£5.50), however, is a disappointment. A cheap tasting lump of strawberry ice cream is covered in a gloopy meringue that hasn’t been crisped up enough, leaving it stodgy. A crisp pastry base is too hard and doesn’t taste of anything. It’s far better to opt for a deluxe shake instead (£4.50). The peanut butter and banana shake is thick, creamy and rich with a strong aftertaste of peanuts. The banana adds a delicate sweetness to each sip. A delight. Choose well and you can have an excellent meal here.

The Drink
A well balanced drink menu exists, available by the bowling lanes, in the dining room or at the bar. A Johnny Cash quote scrawled in the back of each menu states: 'I know that hearts were loving long before I was here, and I’m not the first to ever cry in my bed or in my beer.'

A good selection of cocktails, well priced at the £7 mark, covers mainly the classics but does so well. The Clover Club (Beefeater gin, raspberries, sugar cane syrup, lemon and egg white) arrives simply presented in a shallow glass. A thickness to the cocktail comes courtesy of the egg white, the sweetness of the raspberries cut through by the citrus lemon flavour.

There’s a great selection of Champagne and wine, including a decent choice of whites, reds and a handful of roses. Well described for those unsure as to what to order, the appearance of expensive premium bottles may surprise, but covers all tastes and budgets from £16.95 for the house to £65. Recommended is the Argenta Reserva Malbec, a rich red that’s easy to drink with soft tannins and a chocolate undertone, well priced at just £22.50.

Beer drinkers are well catered for with a decent selection of bottles, with a skew towards American breweries. Coors Light, Anchor Liberty Ale, Anchor Steam, Brooklyn Lager, Sierra Nevada, Anchor Porter and a seasonal guest ale at an average price of £4 finishes up the drink selection well.

The Last Word
All Star Lanes offers a fun night out for people who don’t take themselves too seriously. Who needs to be a spotty thirteen year old to bowl?

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