Anise

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 2 reviews

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9 Devonshire Square,
London,
EC2M 4YL

(020) 7626 5000

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byKelly Hussey27/02/2009
Devonshire Square is a calm oasis in the midst of bustling Liverpool Street. At the heart of this oasis lies Anise, a stylish, seductive cocktail bar that has benefited from a few loving touches.

The Venue
Devonshire Square is located a short walk from Liverpool Street Station, not that you’d know it. The two are so far removed from each other in terms of panache that it’s easy to let your mind wander and imagine you’re a million miles away from the nightmarish commuter hub.

The beautiful outdoor terraces of the square complete with heated seating areas, trees (yes, trees), and gleaming, clean surfaces are calming and attractive. Popular upmarket Indian restaurant Cinnamon Kitchen is an attractive addition, nestling into the beautiful space seamlessly. Walking through the large glass door, you’ll spy the restaurant to the right with diners sitting down to enjoy a meal. Turn to the left of the reception area, however, and Anise opens up in all its glory.

What was once a sterile, industrial space has been transformed into an attractive, seductive lair with some feminine touches that have softened the harsh space. The simple, grey sofa-style seating that runs along the periphery of the airy room have been decorated with lots of large cushions in grey, gold and bright pinks, adding a flash of much-needed colour to the otherwise grey colourscheme. The heavy wooden long benches that take up much of the standing space, handily offering a spot to place your drinks and belongings, run simply along the centre of the room, keeping the lines clean. However, the array of large candles that surround them cast an almost romantic glow, balancing the geometric lines. The heavy central bar sits in a square, accessible from all sides, but the large industrial ceiling has been partially hidden by an eye-catching suspended set of glass shelving, upon which sit row upon row of gleaming premium spirit bottles, boasting the wares contained within the bar.

Large front windows look out onto the pleasant courtyard space, within which sit hand-decorated circular glowing light fittings with an attractive black decoration littering their surface. Opulent in their design, they too contrast the stark spacing. The balance of industrial and glamorous works in perfect tandem to create a surprisingly sexy space that you could sink into for hours.

The Atmosphere
There’s been something of a trend appearing on the London scene recently. Restaurants are starting to push their bars as being a destination in their own right. Whilst some fail, being little more than staging areas for hungry diners awaiting their tables, Anise easily fits into this mould. Segregated from the main restaurant, just sharing a central door and hotel-style toilets, the bar is very much separate. Of course, you’ll find diners enjoying a pre- or post-dinner cocktail, but you’ll also find hordes of local suits filling the bar for a drink or three with colleagues after work. However, the seductive venue with cushioned sinking sofas also plays on first-daters and romantic liaisons, the flattering candlelight casting a seductive glow over drinkers. It’s done well to throw off the cold side of its nature and create a cosy den.

The Food
The restaurant in the adjoining room is known for its top quality Indian food, so many people choose to dine there. However, if you’re low on funds or just want to indulge in a few nibbles to line your stomach before the cocktails start to flow there is a smaller, cheaper bar menu.

Dishes like paneer chilli, jungle style venison pickle and green spiced vegetable cakes with peanuts (£3-£4) sit alongside sharing plates of lamb seekh kebabs and garlic and herb naan with dips. Costing around £7.50 with enough food for a couple of people, it’s a good way of sampling the food coming out of the Cinnamon Kitchen’s, um, kitchen. The food is top quality, reflecting that of the restaurant. If you really just want to pick at something then olives, pickled onions and rice crisps are also available for just £2.50.

The Drink
The drink menu at Anise errs on the higher end of the price scale, but given the area and the nature of the adjoining restaurant, these aren’t prices that will shock. For example, their signature cocktail the cinnamon bellini (cinnamon tea, goldschlager, prosecco and cinnamon syrup) is £9, which actually isn’t too expensive for a sparkling drink. It comes served in a gleaming flute and has a slight pink tone, which is reflected in the delicate sweetness that comes through from the cinnamon, with a very slight spicy bite. If you like your cocktails to have a kick then the spiced martini (cardamom and cinnamon infused vodka, cranberry and pineapple juice and raspberry liqueur with an anise star for garnish) is worth a try at £9. Presented in a small, delicate martini glass, the simple red drink is made attractive with the star-shaped anise garnish. It’s slightly sweet on the first sip with a spicy kick that comes through in an aftertaste that lingers in the mouth with a warmth retained courtesy of the cardamom. If you don’t like cinnamon, however, you won’t enjoy it as the strong flavour from the spice is evident throughout.

If you prefer your spirits presented in a simpler, cleaner way then you can enjoy a huge array of premium choices straight up or with a mixer. There’s an especially good selection of whisky and sherry, although prices rise to £275 – and no, that’s not for a bottle, that’s for a 50ml glass. There are some nice ports and cognacs, with prices starting at just £7. The wine selection is pretty small, but they cover a range of grapes and regions and cost anywhere from £29 for a Pinot Gris Alsace 2005 to £42 for a Quinta de Covela Minho from Portugal.

If you like it really back to basics then the beer selection is surprisingly impressive, although there are no draught options. Usual suspects like Kingfisher and Cobra (£4) make an appearance alongside unusual choices like King Cobra (£7.50), Maredsous Brun (8) and Brugse Zot (£5) for beer connoisseurs.

The Last Word
Anise is a fine example of a restaurant bar setting itself apart from its adjoining eatery, acting as a destination venue in its own right. Having created an identity for itself – and a seductive one at that – it is worth stopping by if you want to escape the hustle and bustle that surrounds Liverpool Street.
Anise has been reviewed by 2 users

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Content updated: 14/02/2012 19:21
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