28 Paddington Street,
Marylebone,
London,
W1U 5QZ

0872 148 4407

Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

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Now, we've all heard of the Firkin Brewery – those crazy guys who go in for naughty puns and take over your favourite local in order to spice it up with 'fun' gimmicks and modern décor. Aren't the Firkin pubs always a bad thing, a pernicious evil of modern Britain not to be encouraged?

In a way, you'd think the Firkin concept could only be more successful in an area like Baker Street – which, for all its resonances of Sherlock Holmes and that slinky song from the eighties, isn't famed for its charming watering holes anyway. In any case it's certain that there's an easy to please market round here – local office workers, in particular.

And indeed, the Firkin Beer Company Apollo, sitting on a quiet road off Baker Street, is fairly humming on most weeknights. They get the odd tourist too, but in the main these drinkers have the thirst of those who are suffering from cruel and unusual levels of office air-conditioning.

On liveliness, then, the Apollo scores pretty highly. It hits an ideal level – enough people to provide atmosphere, not so any that you can't find a chair. And the enthusiasm of these drinkers is probably increased by the deals – of which several are in evidence.

Visually, it's not such great value for money. The green and blue walls are too dark for friendliness, and the big faux-leather-framed mirrors and prints are banal. The seating is fine apart from a red three piece suite that's clearly intended to be cosy but has seen better days and just says 'junk shop' to my eyes.

All things considered, is the Firkin thing OK in this location? Personally, I'm not convinced. A bar should either be charming or cool, and this place is neither. The deals and the perky punters go some way to compensate; but when it comes down to it, the Apollo is firkin mediocre.