Situated on the corner of a quiet residential street just a short walk from Bethnal Green station, the Approach Tavern is a well-established venue that straddles the fence between traditional, no-nonsense ale house and contemporary gastro pub.

The Venue
An attractive terrace with potted palms and old-fashioned garden lamps gives way to a warm yet spacious bar area. Here, the heavy wooden furnishings (not to mention the presence of a few stuffed animals on the wall) say country pub/traditional boozer, whilst the suggestion of carefully constructed design (there is also an art gallery on the first floor) cements the pub’s position as a favourite with creatives who’ve moved into the area over the last few years.

Photographs on the walls depicting the Approach shortly after it was damaged by a bomb during the Second World War serve as reminders of the venue’s rich history, and the wartime theme is continued with a scattering of reproduction propaganda posters from the same era.

The Atmosphere
The crowd here is a mixture of the young and hip (it is a gastro pub in east London, after all...) and older regulars, who perhaps appreciate the Approach for being smart without being fusty. Music is a combination of soft rock, jazz and Motown - all in keeping with the warm and relaxed surroundings – and the overall feel of the place is cosy without being claustrophobic; it all certainly makes for a pleasant setting to enjoy a meal in.

The Food
The menu here sits firmly in the more familiar realm of gastro pub cuisine, featuring hearty dishes that display a degree of sophistication without being overly complicated – although it is worth bearing in mind that none of it comes cheap.

Starters include a generous portion of grilled halloumi on green leaves, as well as a heaving plate of calamari (both £5.50) in a deliciously thick and crispy batter. A main course of Barnsley lamb chop served on a potato rosti with tomato and olive salsa and red wine jus (£13.50) is a well thought out combination of flavours – the freshness of the salsa balancing out the richness of the lamb and the potato. Rib-eye steak (£17) is cooked to perfection and provides further evidence of a capable kitchen who know how to season good-quality meat. Desserts include a sticky toffee pudding (£5.50) oozing with a thick and decadent sauce, and a Bramley apple crumble that possesses a pleasing ratio of tartness to sweetness.

The Drink
The Approach has a good range of beers on offer, amongst which are those reliable staples of the classier drinking establishment - Leffe and Hoegaarden – as well as several Fuller’s real ales including London Pride and HSB. Again, quality comes at a price - so expect to pay up to £4-£5 for a pint of the finer stuff here.

The Approach doesn't disappoint with its spirits selection either, which includes Highland Park Scotch whisky and the ever-pleasant Hendrick’s gin. The wine list is decently sized (starting at £13.40 a bottle), and features a smooth and plummy Borsao Garnacha house red.

The Last Word
The Approach may not be the ideal option for those on a tighter budget, but it certainly is worth the trip if you’re willing to pay the extra for the guarantee of a high quality meal and numerous options for a decent beverage. Friendly staff and a warm and unpretentious setting help to make this a fine choice for drinking in Bethnal Green.

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