The marvellously eccentric Johnnie Mountain has set up a polished new venture under a youthful team that is seeking to provide gentle entertainment in the form of an often surprising menu.

The Venue
Addresses don’t get much plummer than this, right across from the Houses of Parliament. There's no sign announcing the restaurant on the street so memorise the address and find your way into what's a very good-looking restaurant. The more formal restaurant section is an open atrium; perhaps a little reminiscent of an upmarket shopping centre or city hotel - all polished surfaces and potted plants. It’s airy, bright and spacious, though you might feel a little exposed on a quiet evening. The bar area by contrast is cosy, and even a little bohemian in feel, with its low lights, exposed ducts and concrete ceiling, and comfy lounge.

The Atmosphere
Service is eager to please but also pleasantly informal, with enough intelligence to avoid interrupting dining and conversation too often. Chefs serve the courses themselves in order to best explain the dish in front of you, which enhances the sense of a personal touch.

The Food
With Chef Patron Johnnie Mountain’s reputation preceeding him it would be impossible not to expect the unexpected at Atrium, and the main restaurant plays on this by providing the diner no choice in the menu, or indeed a menu to read at all (though a la carte options and small plates are available elsewhere). Dinner is priced at £40 per person and reflects what is seasonally available. Dishes are announced only in limited ingredient-based descriptors, such as ‘pork fillet, carrot and apples’, or ‘BLT’ before being set down. It’s only after the dish has been consumed that it is explained, which makes for having a chef to grill particularly helpful ('which bit was the lettuce?' or, 'what was that almond-like flavour in the pork?').

Johnnie Mountain describes his cooking style as 'old school with a touch of molecular gastronomy' and it would be fair to say this is reflected in the menu at Atrium, where the kitchen sends out a mixture of deceptively simple, classic dishes (such as a sublimely silky chicken liver parfait, so rich in umami it's hard to believe it contains absolutely nothing else but fresh livers) and gleefully playful futuristic concepts (such as the aforementioned BLT, which is a soft-serve mousse of lettuce served with toasts, a fine powder of prosciutto and a sharp tomato and mayonnaise concasse). It's all very well done though, and it's clear Mr Mountain has picked plenty of quality in the kitchen.

The Drinks
It would be a shame not to let the choice for the courses' wines go elsewhere but in the hands of the team – after all, you don’t know what you’ll be served. You get the impression that this might cause a little consternation to some diners, but they should probably plump for the a la carte anyway - this format demands you surrender yourself to the kitchen. The drinks with which they choose to match reflect the kitchen’s enthusiasm for play, as the wines lean towards unusual grape varieties (such as Tempus Carmenere from Chile £21), and surprises come in the form of things such as Mexican wheat beers (Dos Equis), and Madeira served with the first courses. Again, it all works pretty darn well.

The Last Word
Atrium is shooting for Michelin stars and the signs are good. If being pleasantly surprised by food with a sense of humour that nonetheless never loses its sense of self sounds appealing then Atrium’s address should be close to hand.

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