Richard Branson’s Babylon at the Roof Gardens has sky high views and prices to match.

The Venue
Formerly the Kensington Roof Gardens, a recent revamp by Virgin has seen a few changes, none the least dropping the Kensington from the name. Entrance to the venue is discreet, in a small road off Kensington High Street. To get to the restaurant, Babylon, head past security guard and take the lift up to 7th floor, where you’re greeted by a bright white reception area. Once through to the bar, everything explodes into a riot of colour, as bright greens of all shades decorate nearly every surface, from the old fashioned sofas upholstered with velvety flowered fabric to the slippery, satiny stools scattered around the square tables.

The restaurant area is long but not narrow, and the large windows that overlook the terrace and a sea of buildings should let in lots of light during the day. Even if you don’t have a table next to the window, you can probably still catch a decent glimpse of the skyline as the windows reach from the floor to the ceiling. Like the bar, the restaurant is decorated in more shades of green, with green chairs and a long stretch of abstract paintings of what seem to be migrating geese. The neon colours aren’t offensive but fun and fresh – slightly over the top with a knowing nod, almost as if Babylon wants to be the exact opposite of the formal, staid restaurants in the capital with a similar price bracket.

A trip to Babylon isn’t complete without a visit to the toilets, especially if you’re nosy. The men’s and women’s toilets are divided by an aquarium filled with pretty, delicate fish that seem to have been bred specifically to match the colour scheme. Although large rocks in the aquarium block you from seeing too much, men might want to avoid the urinal on the right if they have any performance issues.

The Atmosphere
Despite the high price range, the atmosphere is far from grave, with warm, genuine service and a good mix of diners. The clientele is mostly made up of couples and small groups of friends, but there’s a good range of ages – even the well behaved child or two seems right at home. Birthdays are celebrated with a candle stuck in a chunk of cake, the plate scrawled with chocolate happy birthday wishes – no singing, though, which is probably for the best. In the summer the restaurant is popular for its outdoor barbecues.

The Food
One look at the menu and your eye is automatically drawn to the prices, which start at £9 for a starter and £18 for a main – and that’s for the veggie options. The dishes are British, with a smattering of Mediterranean influences. A starter of oak smoked salmon with sweet potato blinis (£12) is topped with soft, creamy salmon, but the blini is stodgy and you can’t really taste the sweet potato. Pumpkin and wild mushroom risotto (£10) is a good sized portion so you’re not too full by the end. The pumpkin gives the risotto an extra bit of texture and sweetness, tempered slightly with a scattering of parsley.

For mains, the roast fillet of halibut (£23) is great, with a fillet of the fish on top of a bed of wilted kale, fennel and samphire that absorbs the mousse-like shellfish sauce. The fish itself is cooked well, crispy on the outside but not at all dry, but the accompanying mussels aren’t as nice – too chewy and a bit fishy smelling. A Scottish fillet of beef (£23) is thick and tender, although a bit rarer than specified. The mashed swede on the side is a good match for the dark, savoury Madeira jus, but the side of turnips are a bit bland – some nice, floury potatoes might be a better match. Desserts (either £8 or £9) include a sweet, gooey and rich milk chocolate tart with a scoop of creamy peanut brittle ice cream. The clementine cheesecake has a good consistency but a strangely bittersweet citrus aftertaste.

The Drink
The wine list has a bit more choice, price-wise, than the menu does, with wines by the glass from about £4 and bottles from just under £20, the most expensive being a 1996 Penfolds Grange Australian wine for £225 from Babylon’s private cellar. A glass of the Sauvignon Blanc is a good complement to the fish dishes, whilst a glass of the Malbec is rich but refreshing.

There’s a separate, and quite lengthy, cocktail menu, with drinks priced at about £10. If you’d like to indulge your philanthropic streak, £1 of the proceeds from the Red Edition cocktail are donated to an HIV and AIDS charity. It’s an attractive drink, pink and fruity with a buzzy tickle from the Champagne, and the hibiscus flower at the bottom unfurls whilst you drink it. For something a bit more wintry, try the warming cocktail, which is served hot, complete with a massive cinnamon stick and orange peel decorating the glass.

The Last Word
The service is lovely and the atmosphere is great, but the sky high prices mean that only a very limited number of people can afford to eat here. If you have the money to spend it’s worth a trip just to see the views – and the toilets – alone.

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