Bright and airy, Babylon at the Roof Gardens promises great, fresh food and staff who go the extra mile for your enjoyment.

The Venue
The legendary Kensington Roof Gardens has been reinvigorated following investment from Richard Branson and the Virgin Group and is now known as the Roof Gardens. Find Babylon from the entrance on Derry Street, climb into the huge and rather decadent art deco lifts and head for the restaurant, which sits 100 feet above street level. Once inside, there’s a cool and relaxing urban retreat awaiting you, with classic white tablecloths, huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the divine gardens and street below, and funky fireplaces set into the wall. The feel is open and light, and during the warmer months you can head out onto the terrace to enjoy the sunshine, plus for special occasions there’s a private dining room for up to 28 people.

The Atmosphere
While partygoers at the Roof Gardens below will boogie the night away, diners at Babylon can relax and luxuriate in their simple and elegant surroundings, waited on by very attentive waiters who really know their onions – they can stop and explain the provenance of items on the menu, explain the herbs and other items that once found their home outside in the Gardens themselves, or exchange a bit of flirty banter, all in the name of being sure you enjoy your meal. Some might think the Roof Gardens is a throwback to the last decade and it’s had its day, but it really hasn’t lost any of its sparkle. In fact, they’ve used the last decade to really hone their skills, and today you can expect polished and accomplished service.

The menu is inspired by simple ingredients, and there’s nothing overly flashy or complicated about it – it’s just good food. As well as the a la carte menu, there are special menus for weekend lunchtimes, as well as special offers at different times for set menus. Kicking off with the starters from the a la carte menu, you must be sure not to miss out on the goat’s cheese with apple crisps and beetroot. Drizzled with honey, the creamy flavours of the goat’s cheese are balanced well with the tart and sweet flavours of the accompaniments, and it makes a really light start to your meal. The classic smoked salmon is another great light starter, though it’s brought bang up to date with its sweet potato blini accompaniment. Starters cost between £8 and £14.

Moving onto the main event, which cost between £18 and £25, it all gets a bit heavier and slightly more fussy. There’s a great rabbit dish served with bubble and squeak that’s absolutely unmissable – the rabbit has a soft texture and falls apart at the touch of your knife, and the bubble and squeak is made with sweet potato for a modern and sweet edge. Just as enjoyable is the sea bream in white wine and cream. The bream is just as it should be – coarse and flaky flesh that tastes so succulent it makes your mouth water. Desserts at Babylon are a little overpriced at around £9, and to be honest this is where the menu starts to feel a bit 1990s. There’s nothing wrong with chocolate souffle or apple tatin, but it isn’t very creative and however well-executed, they just don’t really capture the imagination.

The Drink
Wines at Babylon really can suit any pocket – there’s even a great Sauvignon Blanc at just £20 a bottle. A slightly pricier £32 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is the one to go for though, with herby and gooseberry flavours. It leaves you feeling really refreshed, which should help you manage those hefty main courses.

The Last Word
Babylon has, for the most part, survived well over a decade and remained relevant. The menu is simple but inspired, and the staff keen to do whatever they can to guarantee your enjoyment. There are certain elements of the menu that feel overpriced and overdone, but for the most part the Branson facelift has kept this place at the top of its game.

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