A full restaurant a mere five weeks after opening is pretty rare. So what can somewhere named after the Azerbaijani capital be doing so right?

The Venue
Slap bang on Sloane Street, Baku pops up with a simple, warm and inviting entrance, in contrast perhaps to the more gaudy fashion houses that neighbour. Once inside, palatial marbles and light woods greet guests, and on the top floor bar you're transported into a bouji Middle Eastern cavern. Jewel encrusted stained glass windows shade the eyes from the hoi polloi, and plush velvet arm chairs and soft golden lighting keep everything suitably sensual – perfect, in fact, for hiding away with a date and a couple of cocktails. Baku takes its art as seriously as its creative concoctions, so expect sculptures and wall hangings on rotation, with a large number coming directly from the bustling Azerbaijani art community.

The Atmosphere
Exclusivity sings in each room, and the service is attentive and friendly. iPad menus are displayed - a novel, if perhaps naff touch - and waiters are helpful and explanatory about some of the more unknown Azerbaijani dishes. There's a real buzz about this place, with tables of well-to-do Knightsbridge folk and the odd hedge fund manager, as well as Middle Eastern families - something that offers an encouraging sign of the regional dishes to come.

The Food
In line with practically every new London restaurant these days, diners are encouraged to share dishes, but thankfully the familiar starter, main and dessert format remains. Diners are greeted with a palate cleansing Atlama drink (yoghurt and herbs) reminiscent of an Indian lassi and absolutely delicious to boot. Freshly baked tandoor bread is served at the table, alongside a pot of fresh herbs and tomatoes.

To begin, there are traditional dishes such as blinis (baked and stuffed with minced lamb and cheese), which are tasty, if a little on the small side; something the gutab (pancakes stuffed with chopped herbs and lamb) suffers from too. Both dishes are served with unusual dressings that are almost fruity, but which work pretty well. Thinly sliced golden beetroot with sheep’s cheese mousse is a dish straight out of somewhere with a Michelin – razor thin slices of flavoursome beetroot beautifully sandwiching the softest, tangiest cheese.

For mains, there are dishes 'From the Oven' or 'Grilled'. Given the size of the tandoor oven in the beautiful open kitchen, the kebab style meat is an obvious choice. Lamb chops are served on gorgeous apple wood boards with a vibrant mint sauce and freshly ground spices to sprinkle, and bastirma (thinly sliced beef) is accompanied with a chilli-marinated yoghurt on the same boards, with the taste of both every bit as good as the excellent presentation. Well cooked meat is left subtly barbequed and not overpowered, in order for the taste of the meat to really shine. Sides include barbecued aubergine and peppers, as well as moist, skinned tomatoes – perfect for cutting through the meats.

Baku's attention to detail follows through to the desserts. The exotic fresh fruit platter, served smoking on dry ice, is a piece of theatre, accompanied with mouth watering yoghurt ice cream and a perfectly tart berry sorbet.

The Drink
Baku's cocktail bar is a cornucopia of home made sugar syrups, liqueur blends and Victorian style tipples. Each option is unique – even vintage – and drinks have their own unique character; from the grand and sparkling Baku Bay Fizz with prosecco and citrus infused vodka to the petite concoction that packs a punch: the Lale Flower Club gin drink with a tangy sherbet foam. To complement the meal, there is a sophisticated wine list going from reasonably priced Argentinian malbecs to the heady heights of Don Perignon rosé champagne, with many matching the Middle Eastern flavours really well.

The Last Word
This is the ideal spot for impressing a new squeeze: it's beautifully designed, the exotic foods provide a talking point and couples can relax in the bar afterwards with a few outstanding cocktails. No wonder it's so full.

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