48 Gresham Street,
Bank,
London,
EC2V 7AY
(020) 7036 6100
The ViewLondon Review
Greed is good. The motto of the City certainly applies to Bar Battu. With consistently excellent food and wine that promises not to give you a hangover, you’ll want to consume as much as humanly possible in one sitting.
The Venue
The City. It’s cold and hard with chain bars on every corner. Thank heavens then for Bar Battu. You could almost be in a French bistro hundreds of miles away - good news if you need an immediate escape from the office. This cosy venue makes great use of the space, divided as it is into a casual drinking area and space for dining. Exposed brick walls, an array of funky modern lighting, blackboards and red leather trimmed seating are just some of the little touches that come together to create a warm, comfortable ambience. From the lighting - that’s dim but not so much so you can’t read the menu - to the tables that are polished but not to the point of looking like they’re straight out of an IKEA catalogue, everything is perfectly pitched.
The Atmosphere
Being located so close to Bank and St Paul’s stations the main bulk of the clientele are suited and booted after workers. However, you won’t get pushed out of the way to make room for another bottle of champagne complete with classy sparkler. Instead there’s a feeling of friends chilling out and colleagues escaping the grey streets outside, looking to find a comforting place away from the glares of computer screens. The staff are so passionate about the menu it’s infectious and you’ll soon be drawn into the world of organic wine.
The Food
For a venue with the word ‘Bar’ in the title it’s a surprise to read the food menu – and an even bigger surprise to try it. Far from putting it together as an afterthought, the menu inspires. Although they have a range of sharing plates, the main menu is highly recommended. A starter of steak tartar (£6.50) is fresh and incredibly well seasoned with salty capers that bring out the rich, heavy flavour of the steak. A rich raw yolk sits on top, adding a delightful creaminess and the crisp sourdough toast adds texture. Alternatively the crab and celeriac remoulade (£5.50) is a creamy, perfectly balanced dish with strong crab flavours and a delicate sweetness that lingers in the mouth. Delicious.
Mains are equally good - the roast cod with salsify and Dorset crab broth (£11.25) is the real highlight. The fish is meaty, flakes perfectly and has a crisp, oily skin that’s full of flavour. The salsify complements it well with an earthy taste and the perfectly cooked clams add another dimension to the creamy broth. Incredibly good value for the price. A fluke? Certainly not, as an equally well cooked whole sea bass attests. Pulling away easily from the bone, the fish is deftly seasoned and is simply accompanied by a tomato salad. That’s all that’s needed.
Finally, desserts round off the incredible menu. Paris brest with homemade caramel ice cream is an assault on the senses, its sweet and creamy flavours balanced by the choux pastry. Of course, the treacle tart with clotted cream is exquisite. By that point you won’t be surprised.
The Drink
Wine. Some people are intimidated by it, put off by confusing menus and imposing sommeliers. At Bar Battu the wine list is designed to make your journey through the world of organic and natural wine an easy and pleasurable one. A charming code of images describe if the wine is cloudy, has a farm-like taste, how full bodied it is and whether it’s biodynamic or organic. With 20 available by the glass you can take your own journey and the staff offer recommendations if you’re eating and want to pair wine with food. Rather than make choosing a wine a chore it becomes a pleasure. Bar Battu has taken away the mysticism that surrounds wine and has instead chosen a consistently excellent selection that lets the quality speak for itself. Best of all, if you drink organic wine there are no sulphites – the big bad chemical that causes hangovers. If there was ever a reason to check out a wine bar that must be it!
The Last Word
Hidden gem may be the most overused phrase in reviewing venues but in this case it’s right on the money. A must-visit.
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