A recent addition to Chancery Lane, Baranis appeals to an upmarket crowd of business and legal professionals, but prides itself on being an informal, unpretentious and laid-back alternative to the clichéd wine bar experience.

The Venue
A brick-walled cellar bar, it’s been designed with plenty of shadowy alcoves to hide yourself away in, although you can sit up on the high stools at the brightly lit bar if you don’t mind being seen. In keeping with its French – and in particular, Provence – theme, the extremely friendly staff wear Breton t-shirts. Down one side of the room there’s also a genuine, gravel-grounded boule pit if you fancy a quick game.

Because of its location, there’s naturally a serious contingent of members of the legal profession. But most seem to be off-duty and relaxed rather than in ‘meeting’ mode. There’s certainly no strict dress code – you may see some clients in pinstripe suits (albeit with ties loosened), others in motorbike leathers.

The Atmosphere
It’s low key, chilled and friendly. Modern jazz plays over the speakers, but not loudly enough to drown out any conversation. Service is at your table, so there’s no need to queue at the bar, and attentive enough to ensure you’re never left without a full glass, unless you want to be of course.

The Food
Baranis is definitely a bar rather than a restaurant (its sibling Cigalon sits upstairs if that’s what you’re after), but the phrase bar food doesn’t really do justice to the delights on offer. Again, the food is very much in keeping with the Provence theme, with much of it sourced from the area. Portions aren’t huge, but the prices are very reasonable considering that boutique meat eaters can sample the jambon cru du Mont Ventoux (cured ham) and brochettes d’agneau au romarin (lamb & rosemary skewer) both at a reasonable £4.50. The array of fish dishes includes poulpe grille and caponata (grilled octopus - £8), down to Swiss chard and anchovy fritter (£3.50) and grilled baby squid (£5). Vegetarian options include a sumptuous crostini d’aubergine (£4) and a wild mushroom polenta dripping in a rich, cheesy topping (£4.50).

The Drink
As you’d expect, there’s a dazzling array of wines, with around 40 different French wines on the list, plus a handful from Corsica. Try the Domaine Isle St Pierre, which is deliciously dry, or the more explosive fruitiness of the 2009 Vin de Pays de Mediterranee. Both are just £19 a bottle. At the other end of the price scale there are whites like Domaine de Trevallon at £129, and the Louis Latour 1989 Batard-Montrachet (£450), or reds Domaine de Trevallon (£128) and, at the top of the shop, Romanee Conti Burgandy (£650). For those who fancy something even more typically French, there’s a selection of pastis and absinthe from between £3.50-£5 a glass.

The Last Word
Most places in London with menus as specialist and impressive as this have an attitude to match, but Baranis is surprisingly relaxed and un-uptight. Likewise, while there is an opportunity to really show off and spend a fortune, you’re still guaranteed a reasonable night on a limited budget.

venue information venue map view london review write a review