Tucked away deep in the heart of South Kensington, Barts knows its place amongst the monied celebrities of West London. However, it favours the back door approach to imbibery, featuring intimacy and detail rather than the brash, red-topped style of its neighbours.

The Venue
When you wander down Sloane Avenue from South Kensington tube station, you’ll immediately spy the clientele Barts hopes to draw in. Alongside such illustrious company as Boujis, Chelsea Arts Club and The Harrington, it’s not exactly top of the to do list for local students.

When you arrive at the swanky Chelsea Cloisters hotel, you’ve not gone too far - ask the reception staff and they’ll point you in the direction of an uninspiring door just past the toilets. Enter here and you’ll leave South Kensington far behind, arriving in a swirl of Marilyn Monroe and Mickey Mouse. Ring the bell to be let in (if there’s room) and you’ll be taken aback by the size of the place. The bar is the size of an average living room, and the reams of arty bric-a-brac adorning every nook, cranny and corner only serve to squeeze the walls in tighter.

Everything here is designed around the concept of a Prohibition-era speakeasy, from the bebop, jazz and big band on the stereo to the almost McDonalds-esque uniforms of the waiting staff. Yet its owners - who also run hip Sloane Square joint Kitts - have added some unique details that bring the idea kicking and screaming into the 21st century - the Thunderbirds graffiti bar being the oddest anachronism. However, as confused as it may sound, the bar is brimming with personality and distances itself refreshingly from the rows of identikit imitations dotted around the Kings Road. Cutesy and kitsch it may be, but gaudy and faceless it thankfully ain’t.

The Atmosphere
As you’d expect from a bar that hands its regulars special key cards, this is a close-knit and cosy affair. Seventeen pewter and silver tankards adourn the bar, each with a brass name holder that will be assigned to Barts' seventeen biggest regulars to drink from in due course. A ‘thirst aid’ box promises added inebriation for those who stay the pace. Staff are kind and co-operative, although the constantly American greetings can be somewhat laboured. Still, service is quick and friendly, much better than most bars in the area.

The soothing playlist and soft lighting means chatter flows steadily, and the groups of friends, colleagues and acquaintances who seem to appear in clutches only add to the intimacy. Basically, this is the most upmarket house party you’ll ever see this side of Soho.

The Food
Barts offers a concise food menu - short enough to make it clear that this is a watering hole and not a filling-up station, the dishes on offer are nevertheless able to satisfy any hunger level.

If you’re looking for something to munch on then their snack section (£3.50-£4.50) offers dishes in keeping with the retro vibe of the bar. Think old fashioned cheese on toast fingers, Cumberland cocktail sausages with honey and mustard, pork crackling, sausage rolls or Scotch quail eggs. Recommended are the vegetable crudites with hummus and tzatziki. The good quality hummus, creamy but light tzatziki and plentiful vegetables are enough to satisfy and are kinder on the waistline then most bar snacks. Salads (£2-£7) for the same reason are popular. The avocado, tomato and mozzarella salad with balsamic dressing comes served as half an avocado, half a slab of mozzarella for you to cut and sliced tomatoes as a garnish. It is for you to assemble the lot. Make sure to ask for some pepper, which comes served in a pepper grinder fit into a full sized baseball bat - another of the elements that comprise the quirky decor.

Highly recommended are the sharing platters (£13). Choose from the cheese or charcuterie board or a mix of the two and be served a bountiful selection of cheese, a few crackers (you can ask for more if you need extra), quality olives and other pickled vegetables, a few slices of fruit including fresh fig and a delicate chutney, all served on a large wooden tray. If you are hungry you can also order from the stodge section (£7-£9) where aubergine and buffalo mozzarella parmigiana, macaroni and cheese, shepherds pie and spaghetti bolognese provide greater satisfaction. What if you need something sweet? Order a tub of Juds ice cream and indulge yourself.

The Drink
Where to start? The drinks menu lasts longer than a Russian classic, and features no less than 13 different vodkas and about two pages of colourful cocktails. Highly recommended is the refreshing Barts Banter (Chambord, peach liqueur, Grand Marnier, fresh strawberries and orange), a delicious cocktail that has a sweet undertone that isn’t sickly with a pleasant strong flavour of peaches. Equally terrific is the Brockman’s Bugsy (Brockman’s gin, Cointreau, lemon juice and a dash of gomme syrup), although the Dietrich’s Kiss (Angostura Bitters, sugar, Campari, and Perrier Jouet Champagne) is slightly disappointing with bitter undertones that takes away from the flavour of the Champagne. Also good is the Alchemist (vodka, apple juice, elderflower cordial, fresh lime, mint and cucumber), a refreshing and enjoyable blend, the mint dominates with interesting notes of elderflower and cucumber. All are extremely well priced at just £5.95-£7.95, which for the quality of the ingredients used is a real steal.

If you are looking for true Prohibition flavour, however, all cocktails can be served in a teapot (£40) or look for a teacup (£5) such as the Darwin (tequila, triple sec, passion fruit and lime), a small but potent potion. You can also indulge in tequila tea poured straight from a Marrakshi pot, washed down with a big bowl of nuts. There are some great brandies on show, and the wine list is impressive, ranging from £12-£50 - hardly killer prices given the bling locale.

Everything here has something to say, including the exhaustive Champagne selection comprising a dozen bottles priced from £45 to a steep £400 for a Krug Rose. The beer selection is also interesting with bottles (£3.50-£4) like Asahi Super Dry, Asahi Black, Samuel Adams, Estrella, Bishop’s Finger and Whistable Bay. Even the soft drinks have a spin to them with Fever Tree Tonic and Fentmans Ginger Ale providing a refreshing change from the usual Coca Cola and Sprite.

The Last Word
Barts may be a Sloane Ranger’s paradise but it takes the B out of Boujis with its back street boldness, attention to detail and originality that pumps through the bar in every nut, bolt and curio of nostalgia. The setting’s cool, the ambience considered and the drink list lengthy and full of zest. Well worth a visit if you can navigate its inconspicuous setting, this bar is something very few London spots are nowadays - different.

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