In an area filled with sub-standard chains and overpriced tourist traps lies this example of a chain getting everything right. Belgo Centraal offers a selection of beer better than that of most bars and a choice of quality food at prices to rival its neighbouring eateries.

The Venue
Belgo Centraal - as its name hints at - has a very central location, a short stroll from Covent Garden, Holborn and Leicester Square stations. However, its actual positioning is in an out of the way spot on Earlham Street, just off Seven Dials, offering it a comforting seclusion that the crowded, cheap venues of nearby Leicester Square can’t rival.

Stepping past the heavy glass doors of the main entryway into the low-ceilinged, black reception area, you’ll be hit with a blast of heat from the kitchen directly below you. After a lengthy walk through twisting stairways and corridors you’ll arrive at a subterranean cave-like dining room. Immediately in front of you is the large, gleaming open kitchen where you’ll see the chefs at work. The dining area is divided into two. To the right is a large communal dining space with long bench-like tables where you’ll find yourself positioned next to strangers. This is to emulate the Trappist Monks - whose brews make up a fair proportion of the Belgian beer on offer - and the way they dine in large halls, sat elbow-to-elbow. It’s a cute touch that adds a hint of authenticity to the restaurant. It’s also ideal for large groups.

To the left is a more traditional dining area with smaller wooden tables for two-to-four people. Low ceilings covered with industrial vents show off the natural exposed brick arches of this cosy space. Several central booths are separated by panes of frosted glass and metallic partitions that could have been cold when coupled with the gleaming black stone floor but are given a feeling of warmth courtesy of the red, orange and yellow tones of the walls. The beer theme is evident throughout from the Trappist Monk uniforms the staff wear to the beer ads that adorn the walls, displays of beer glasses and bottles, and gleaming draught pumps at the well-sized bar.

The Atmosphere
Of course, the tourist contingent is present here - this is Covent Garden, after all. However, you will also find a large number of Londoners - either on dates or catching up with friends or colleagues - enjoying the warm, friendly ambience of Belgo Centraal. Beer lovers also make up much of the clientele here, seeking out the rare beer on offer and enjoying the theatre of having it poured by the table into an array of unusual beer glasses.

The staff are good natured, especially as they’re made to wear Trappist Monk uniforms, and are extremely well versed on the beer and food menus. Ask them any question and they’ll happily impart their knowledge gained from trips to the breweries of Belgium. It’s a passion that is infectious and it’s hard not to become caught up in their enthusiasm.

The Food
Belgo is well known for its cheap, good quality mussels and it’s well worth plumping for one of these big sellers. For £11.95 you receive a huge steaming pot filled with a generous pile of mussels. You can opt for a smaller half kilo pot for £5.95 if you’re unsure. The mussels are prepared in a variety of ways, such as the Provencale (steamed plum tomato sauce, basil, thyme and garlic), Green Thai (coconut, green chilli, lemongrass, lime and coriander) or the ever popular Mariniere (white wine, garlic, cream, celery and onion) - a rich, creamy sauce that isn’t heavy or cloying, instead lifting the flavours of the plump, perfectly cooked mussels. Great value for money.

It’s well worth keeping an eye out for special menus, such as the Oktoberfest menu that matches beer with each course and utilises beer in the ingredients or Lobsterfest that centres around well priced lobster dishes. For example, you can order a delicious lobster thermidor (£8.50) comprising half a whole lobster with a generous layer of a cheese, mustard and Orval beer sauce – a rich, creamy sauce that works perfectly with the sweet lobster. Alternatively, the Lobster Bisque - a sweet, creamy lobster broth - is surprisingly filling. Mains include options like a generous lobster salad with whole pieces of sweet lobster sitting atop a large bed of salad comprising spring onions and green beans for a fresh, light take on the dish (£16.95). Alternatively, the surf and turf comprises an entire lobster in its shell with a generous helping of crisp chips with a fluffy middle and a light, fresh salad. It also comes with a perfectly cooked slab of steak and is only for those with a big appetite. It’s excellent value for money and worth keeping an eye out for as these menus are only available for limited times.

Desserts (£4.75) fare equally well. The strawberry pavlova with Chantilly cream is a perfectly crunchy meringue with a sweet, gooey middle and generous slices of fresh strawberry. The cream is rich and also sweet but doesn’t overpower the dish, instead complementing the flavours. Alternatively, the chocolate cheesecake is rich but not heavy with deep, dark chocolate flavours. The consistency is perfect - gooey but light.

The Drink
Where Belgo Centraal really excels is with its beer selection. On tap there’s an unusual choice of Cristal, Brugs Wit, Ciney Blonde, Fruli Strawberry and De Konnick, all well priced between £2.35 and £2.95 per half pint (many of the draught options are only available in half pint servings). However, where the bar shines is with its bottle selection.

There’s a huge selection of bottled beers available here, including a great selection of Trappist beers, brewed under the supervision of Trappist monks. There are only six monastaries where this takes place worldwide. There’s an excellent choice, including Westmalle, Chimay and the highly alcoholic Roquefort (£4.40-£12.75). There’s also a good choice of white, blonde, amber and dark beers and – if you’re not a big fan of beer – there is also a lengthy list of fruit beers. Recommended is Judas, an easy to drink golden dark beer with sweet orange notes. Also nice is the Verboden Vrucht, a rich, dark brew with chocolate flavours and an amusing bottle depicting Adam and Eve. The Triple Karmeleit arrives in a very attractive, large curved glass that shows off its golden brown colouring. It slides down easily and has a light, easy-to-drink flavour.

If you really don’t like beer and don’t want to give it a go then there is a decent, surprisingly well rounded choice of wine. Also, a selling point of the bar for those looking to move onto the West End’s party spots afterwards is the Schnapps. There’s a huge selection here and you can buy shots by the stick.

The Last Word
Belgo Centraal is another great example of this chain getting it right. The beer selection will keep most beer connoisseurs happy whilst the excellent food serves as the perfect accompaniment.

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