The upstairs restaurant might take all the plaudits but if you’re looking for some fine fruits de mer and something cold and crisp then this South Kensington stalwart is certainly worth a visit. And it's not only for local ladies lunching light, it appears.

The Venue
On the really rather airy ground floor of Michelin House, with ‘Bibendum’ himself (the Michelin Man, to most) overseeing affairs from up on high, the Oyster Bar certainly has a grand setting. This impressive building, with its hints of art deco and sterling spot right on Fulham Road, is something of a west London landmark, with a history stretching back to 1909 when those good folk at Michelin decided they needed a permanent UK headquarters. Sir Terence Conran got his hands on it in 1985, popped a bit of spit and polish on the original features and turned the top floor into a fine dining restaurant and the ground floor into an oyster restaurant and bar.

The Atmosphere
The admirable refusal to change too much of the venue’s actual design certainly gives the place a lot of character, especially the intricate tiling depicting races from the ‘30s and the big fat welcome from a felled Bibendum on the floor. However, the high ceilings and plethora of space can make it feel a little cold – something that works well in the balmy heat of the city summer but not so well when the icy winds whistle through. The plum spots are definitely in the slightly more intimate bar room, where space is a little more limited, and all the better for it. Staff impress, and although you might think this is somewhere set up solely for ladies of means and little to do, don’t be surprised to see couples, youngsters and even a large group of dour German men working their way through the higher reaches of the wine list, barely uttering a word.

The Food
The reasonably priced oysters are just about as fresh as they come, with sharp and plump Fine de Claires (Prestige - £13.25 for six), metallic Colchester rocks (£10.75) and excellent West Mercia No. 2s (£20) all very pleasing reminders of the venue’s moniker. If you fancy something a little more (though not hugely) substantial then the salads are very good too, with a simple Waldorf (£13.75) jazzed up brilliantly by thinly sliced pink veal and an herby, lemony sauce verte, whilst a goat’s cheese salad (£9.75) with beetroot, leeks, hazelnuts and a light, sweet vinaigrette is very good too.

A huge plateau de fruits de mer (£29.95 per person) is a good bet if you want to sample the kind of fresh, well sourced produce Bibendum brings in, with crab, langoustines, Mediterranean prawns, oysters, crevette grises, winkles and whelks great for grazing over a bottle or two. Desserts include a couple of daily specials, a decent cheese board (£7.75) and a very good crème brûlée (£6.75) that thankfully needs a decent whack with a spoon.

The Drink
As you’d expect, the vast majority of drops drank are champagnes and whites, so expect the list to be judiciously skewed that way. A well thought out ‘house’ list includes a very good 2010 La Begude, Cuvée Amélie Chardonnay (£22.50) and a slightly more expensive but still good value 2010 Chablis Vielle Vigne, Domaine des Genèves at £34.50. All of the house options are available by the glass but if you want to be a touch more extravagant then you can ask for the very sound wine list from upstairs, where a gorgeous Gavi from Cascina de Melo (£36.50) does battle with an exquisite 2009 Meursault from Domaine Vincent Bouzereau (£69.50) for star billing. Bottles of Bolly (£225), Krug (£195) and a fair few other fine bins of bubbly are available, should you wish to really look the part.

The Last Word
A cracking spot for a light bite, the seafood at Bibendum’s Oyster rivals anywhere in London. Just make sure you close the door behind you.

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