If you’re adamantly against chains as a concept then open up your mind for one night and head along to Belgo Kingsway - it’s sure to change your mind.

The Venue
Belgo Kingsway is hard to miss, handily located within walking distance of several tubes, practically across the road from Holborn station. It may not be the most picturesque of locales, based as it is on a main road with several bus routes meandering their way just outside, but it manages to whisk you away from the din into a world of beer, beer and more beer (and mussels).

Large external windows allow plenty of light in, yet the traffic outside doesn’t intrude thanks to the warm atmosphere they’ve built. To the left are simple tables and chairs set up for drinkers and along the outer edge towards the front of the bar are sofas and comfortable booth-like areas for those who wish to settle in for the night. The central bar gleams with row upon row of beer and several draught taps, tempting tired workers. The decor is simple without being cold, the use of darker colours and wood making it appear more cosy than dull. Interesting oversized lamps hang from the ceiling, looking more like pieces of art than practical light fittings. They emit a dimmed stream of light that only helps to create a warm atmosphere.

To the right of the central bar is a small dining area. Slightly segregated from the main bar by a cash register and a reception space, it’s still very much a part of the action. Within eye-line of the main bar, the pumping music and loud conversation drifts over so this is in no way the place to come to enjoy a quiet meal. That said, it’s nice to escape the push of bodies on a busy Thursday or Friday night. There are several small tables, closely packed in with hard wooden chairs. Not exactly the most comfortable of arrangements but certainly functional and not at all unpleasant. It is what it is - a dining space in the midst of a heaving bar. Pleasantly, an open plan kitchen overlooks the restaurant and the clean, gleaming surfaces and unhurried, competent looking chefs set your mind at ease.

The Atmosphere
Belgo Kingsway is primarily a bar. Office workers - mainly lawyers from the surrounding offices - arrive in their droves, especially as the weekend looms, to make the most of the incredible selection of beer this venue has to offer. Even before it reaches 6.30pm, most of the tables will be taken up and the throng is almost intimidating. Luckily, the bar staff are competent and friendly and the wait, even at the busiest times, isn’t painfully long.

In the restaurant, too, the staff are friendly, knowledgeable and efficient. Although the chefs in the kitchen appear remarkably unhurried, even when all the tables are full, food arrives promptly, as does the constant supply of beer. It’s a laid back place for a drink or dinner, doing both extremely well.

The Food
Although the bar side of Belgo Kingsway seems to dominate, you’ll find the food astounds. Famed for their mussel dishes, what could have been average, rushed food added in as an afterthought actually is remarkably fresh, well prepared and delicious. The value for money here is simply excellent.

Starters cost between £4-£7. The salmon fishcakes (£5.25) are a great starter. The breadcrumbs are crunchy but delicate and the salmon inside is light, fresh and full of flavour – the contrast between the soft middle and the crisp exterior is delightful. The side of baby spinach is fresh and is more a light salad and the lime hollandaise is a nice twist on the sauce and adds a rich creaminess to the dish. Alternatively, the sauteed squid and chorizo (£5.95) is full of flavour with the light fresh squid working well with the rich, lightly spiced, meaty flavour of the chorizo. However, the squid is a little too chewy and the chorizo slightly greasy. That said, the dressing works well with an undertone of lemon to lift the dish and add a fresh edge.

The main courses here are so fulfilling, you’ll notice the majority of diners just popping across after a drinking session to indulge in the mussels. The mussel dishes are extraordinarily good value for money, so much so you may be a little wary as to what to expect. Never fear, a kilo of mussels (yes, that’s a lot of mussels) costing just £11.50 with a side of chips doesn’t disappoint. Appearing in a silver saucepan, basically presented, the stunning shellfish speaks for itself. Each one is fresh and well cooked, sliding out of the shell with ease, bursting in flavour and being of the perfect consistency. You can order several varieties of this main dish, from steamed mussels in a white wine, garlic, cream, celery and onion sauce to a Thai dish with coconut, green chillis, lemongrass, lime and coriander. Best of all, if you order between 5.30pm and 7pm a bowl of classic mussels with chips is only priced at whatever time you placed your order, meaning it could cost as little as £5.30.

Desserts are well priced at £4.75. The strawberry pavlova with chantilly cream and strawberry coulis is sweet and filling and the cream is light and fresh. Unfortunately, the meringue is too hard and, in places, overly chewy and spoils the dish. However, the waffle with vanilla ice cream, chantilly cream and warm white chocolate sauce is divine. The waffle is well cooked, served warm, and has a nice consistency that isn’t too doughy. The cream, ice cream and chocolate sauce work together to create rich, creamy flavours that, surprisingly, aren’t too sickly and don’t overpower the waffle.

Keep an eye out for regularly changing special menus. For example, the Lobsterfest menu offers mains in the region of £16.95 for a large, fresh grilled whole lobster, simply presented with lots of salad and a bowl of chips or – if you’re up to the challenge – a surf and turf. This comprises either a half or whole lobster and a steak with salad and chips. The lobsters are fresh, succulent and remarkably good value for money given the quality. It’s also worth asking the staff to impart their knowledge of food and beer and request a beer pairing with the standard menu. They have all been trained to know which beers complement which food.

The Drink
Belgo is all about the beer, with a definite skew towards varieties from Belgium. On draught they have Amstel, Heineken, Cristal, Hoegaarden, Leffe Blonde, Fruli Strawberry, De Koninck and Guinness at an average price of £3-£3.50 a pint. Certainly a fine selection. However, it’s their bottled beers that really shine. They even offer Trappist beers brewed in Belgium under the supervision of Trappist monks with only six monasteries in the world producing them. Priced between £4.40-£12.75 a bottle they’re not cheap, but for a taste of something different punters happily part with the cash. They also have a large selection of beer, including blonde, white, amber and dark varieties with blonde ales also on sale. So for beer lovers out there this is paradise.

If you’re not a fan but don’t want to miss out, the fruit beers are surprisingly easy on the palate and are more like strong alcopops than beer. The Mongozo Banana at £4.45 a bottle is sweet and really does smell and taste like banana. Although it may not be to the tastes of die-hard fans, it’s certainly an easy way to get into drinking beer.

If you’re not a fan then Belgo does offer cocktails, a decent selection of wine and a nice choice of spirits, including premium brands. If you like your cocktails creamy, be sure to sample Dorothy’s Orgasm (Baileys, Kahlua, Amaretto, Butterscotch Schnapps, milk and cream). It’s certainly sinful but tastes more like dessert than an alcoholic drink. If you have a sweet tooth then their excellent selection of schanapps are really popular and come in every flavour from pear to hazelnut.

The Last Word
Belgo Kingsway is a pleasant surprise. Although it may not be a trendy independent watering hole, the huge range of beer, incredible food and brilliant value for money make it a surefire winner.

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