Chain restaurants often get a bad rep with so many opening sub-standard branches where the basics of restaurant finesse are quickly forgotten. Bistro du Vin shows that the opposite can also be true.

The Venue
Make no mistake, Bistro du Vin is one beautiful restaurant. Upon entering you’ll see a huge bar running down the left-hand side of the, frankly, gigantic room. Nestled against it is a low row of the most comfortable bar stools you’ll have ever sat on – more high armchairs than stools. Sinking into place, it makes the ideal spot for a pre-dinner tipple.

The restaurant itself is sprawling and plays host to sofas, booths and more casual dining tables. In keeping with the bar, it looks beautiful but is incredibly comfortable, ensuring there's certainly no style over substance. The decor (though undoubtedly glamorous) doesn't have that ostentatious feel that other venues employ. Instead, the mix of warm browns and creams are lifted by simple touches like rows of wine bottles in the centre of the space, a huge open kitchen, a strange colourful ‘library’ area and simple paintings covering the walls - it's bistro chic with a Soho edge.

They keep it trendy with a funky fabric light feature made by Diesel, and yet there’s a timeless feel to the space. It’s very cleverly done. Oh and you won’t be able to stop yourself from getting excited about the glassed-off cheese room. Yes, a room filled with cheese.

The Atmosphere
This is the kind of place where you are looked after from the second you step in the door. They employ an army of staff here and yet it never feels too full-on. Instead, you’re whisked from the street to the bar, from the bar to your table, in one fluid, easy motion. From the friendly bar staff to the incredibly knowledgeable sommeliers and waiting staff, you’re looked after by several equally friendly people during your meal. And this has a visible effect on the diners, who all seem relaxed and chilled out, laughing and enjoying their dinner. The clientele is made up of couples, businessmen and nearby media workers; a mix that helps to enliven the restaurant even more.

The Food
The food at Bistro du Vin is excellent and very well priced for the quality, covering specialities in meat, seafood and fish dishes.

For a starter, the stand out dish is the goat’s cheese soufflé (£6.75), which is a decadent, rich and wonderfully sinful starter with a slight tang from the goat’s cheese that goes well with the underlying creaminess. The soufflé is cooked perfectly so it’s light and melts in the mouth and the overall result is delicious. Also good is the Cornish crab with toasted sourdough (£9.50), which may be rather expensive but when you see the huge amount of white, flaking crab meat on offer, under a layer of creamy, rich dark meat, you’ll soon understand why. Fresh and light, it really tastes of the sea and the crisp sourdough is an ideal accompaniment.

For mains, the veal escalope with gratinated cheese may cost north of £15, but it's delightful. The veal is full of flavour and has a heavy meatiness that’s lifted by the cheese. Order with sides of creamy pureed potato and buttery green beans (£3-£3.50) and you’ll have an impressive main dish. Also good is the daily special of red mullet with spring vegetables. The mullet is meaty, fresh and perfectly cooked, and the light flavours are lifted by the slight bitterness of mini turnips mixed with earthy, slightly sweet carrots. It’s a dish that’s a lesson in the balancing of delicate flavours.

Finally come desserts (£6.50). What amounts to an Eton Mess is a delicious sundae glass packed full of rich cream, crisp meringues and sweet strawberries, but it’s the cheese that steals the show. For just over £12 you can enjoy unlimited cheese from the cheese room – and this is quite an experience. You’ll be allowed inside where you can discuss your tastes and preferences with the waiter who has an in-depth knowledge of the produce. The choice changes all the time and it’s as much about the experience as it is about the cheese itself, which is exceptional.

The Drink
Bistro du Vin offers By The Glass wine machine that allows you to sample a range of fine wines by the 50ml or 125ml glass. The selection is exquisite and the choice ranges from £4 a shot to £85 for a glass of their finest Chateau Margaux Premier Cru Classe. Otherwise, the frankly huge wine list is well laid out to showcase wines by different flavours, making your choice easier. They offer some excellent choices with their Riesling coming highly recommended.

However, it’s not all about the wine as the bar shows off its expertise on the cocktail front. Costing £9-£12, the choice covers martinis, long and short drinks with some innovative twists - although the classic Rossini Champagne cocktail is a must as an aperitif. The most impressive drink, though, is the summer version of the Bloody Mary - the Green Snapper. Made with gin, celery, cucumber, apple, sherry, Tabasco and coriander, it tastes much like a Bloody Mary but it has a lighter, sweeter side and a vibrant green colour that makes it the ideal summer substitute.

The Last Word
Bistro du Vin impresses on every level and you don’t have to max out the credit card to experience it. Perfectly executed.

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