274 Kilburn High Road,
Kilburn,
London,
NW6 2BY
0872 148 2856
The ViewLondon Review
Walking into the Black Lion might induce a spot of temporary dizziness as your mind struggles to take in the vibrantly restored, eye-catching eighteenth century moulded plaster work that covers every exposed inch of wall. It is painted in rich tones of deep brackenish green and throaty burgundy, with lively curlicues of gold springing out across the top.
It could be a little overpowering for some people’s tastes, but the space in the bar and the simple wood floor and furniture provide a good foil. Large windows balance the walls and stop the ornamentation from appearing to leer down threateningly as if it is about to slide off the wall and start a Day of the Triffids-esque march across London.
In all other respects, the ambiance is most unhurried, as becomes a place of relaxation and conversation. The lighting is pleasantly low, the music is audible but the chatter is louder, and the emphasis is on a ponderous stroking, rather than a frenetic stoking of the senses. Cocktails, shooters, and a fun bar menu with fondues-you don’t see them very often these days-all add to the options.
The Black Lion achieved the considerable accolade of coming second in the Evening Standard Gastro-pub of the year competition, and it has a comfortable dining room where you can try the daily-changing menu designed by chef Pascal Perigout.
The menu is English and French with an emphasis on unusual produce, like the Ostrich fillets and the Wild Boar, with a couple of Oriental ambassadors like the Duck Spring rolls to spice things up. It is based around the freshest ingredients sourced by the chef, and looks appealing without being too complicated.
The lunch set menu is particularly good value and the rest isn’t overpriced good quality cooking. The dining room is a calmer shade of green and won’t give you gilding-induced indigestion, and the original panels and gorgeous 18th Century fireplace are resplendently preserved.
It’s a fine retreat which combines a sense of old-school listed-building comfort with the mod cons of international cuisine.