Although The Boundary’s Albion cafe is a great lunch stop and their restaurant makes for a luxurious dinner date, their Rooftop restaurant doesn’t reach the same heights.

The Venue
Located on the roof of Peter Prescott, Vicki and Terence Conran’s Boundary, the Rooftop caps off a building containing still-to-be-opened guest rooms, the old school Albion cafe, grocer’s and bakery, and an upscale basement restaurant. The Rooftop is the last of the trio of eateries to open, in part because it’s completely dependent on the weather. There’s no cover up on the roof, so even a sprinkling of rain will mean having to scurry back downstairs – if it’s rained recently, or there’s a chance it will later, make sure you call first to double check that they’re open.

To get to the roof terrace, head past reception and into the lift, which takes you upstairs in just a few seconds. Once you pass through the doors, the roof is split into two distinct sections, with a bar area comprising of low, casual sofas and seats (complete with blankets to guard against the British chill) and a restaurant area with picnic style tables and canvas directors’ chairs laid out in groups of four or more. Printed on the chairs are a variety of different retro cartoon postcards, the kind in which twerpy men ogle buxom beach bunnies, much to the horror of their portly wives.

When the sun is out, the Boundary Rooftop is a lovely, relaxing venue, but even a light breeze can quickly cool you down. A large fireplace in the centre of the Rooftop should guard against the cold, and the sofas in front of it will no doubt be prime seating when it’s chilly. Although there is, technically, a 360 degree view, it’s impossible to see all of it at once – the open kitchen blocks much of one side – without walking around the perimeter. During the daytime it’s mostly roofs, buses and the odd petrol station you’re looking at – it’s much more romantic at night.

The Atmosphere
Local Shoreditch workers are the main crowd, lounging around on the sofas in their sunglasses or leisurely sipping drinks before their meal. The prices, however, are more Mayfair than East London and as such you can expect a few older men in suits as well, keen to impress with something a bit edgier than usual for their business lunch. It’s all very relaxing, but this being London and all, the threat of an imminent downpour is never more than a few minutes away. Everyone is friendly and cheerful here, but staff talking in the open bar and kitchen should be aware that their conversation is magnified, leaving diners in the restaurant area privy to more details than they need to be.

The Food
A short and succinct menu features about five starters, mains and puddings, plus a few sides. A £1 cover charge includes unlimited still or sparkling water, but bread and olives are extra. Prices are similar to the downstairs restaurant but, unfortunately, that’s where the similarities end. A whole artichoke starter (£6) is a large portion but difficult to eat, cold and unappetising. A small bowl of vinaigrette on the side doesn’t perk up the bland, blank flavours of the artichoke – some other seasoning would be nice. A large portion of chilled watercress soup (£5), on the other hand, is a pretty, vibrant green, with subtle, delicate flavours.

Mains include scallop and pancetta brochette, an expensive £19 for what’s essentially two kebab-style pieces. The scallops are soft and tender, the pancetta succulent and slightly salty, and the stems of rosemary instead of skewers are a nice touch. But considering it only comes with a dish of a watery salsa-style tomato sauce, you should really get another skewer for the price. Sea trout (£16) is a large portion but it’s cooked on the outside, completely raw in the middle and lukewarm throughout. It’s one thing to eat raw fish in a sushi restaurant but under the baking hot sun it’s a bit off-putting. The light dressing on the fish is nice, but it’s disconcerting that the only the edges are cooked and the main fillet is essentially sashimi. A slice of lemon on the side (which would benefit from a muslin cloth so seeds don’t fly everywhere) means you wind up trying to ceviche it yourself so that some of it is cooked. As the dishes don’t really come with any accompaniments you’ll need sides, which cost £3.50. The tomato salad is quite fresh but completely doused with onions which don’t enhance the lightness of the tomato. A parsley and olive salad is likewise very oniony, and salty as well, with black olives and a much higher parsley ratio than necessary.

Puddings include a massive bowl of early season French strawberries and cream (£7); the strawberries are incredibly ripe, but slightly mushy on top, and the cream is light, thick and indulgent. A pot au chocolat (£5) is exactly that, a pot of chocolate, but it’s a slightly puzzling dish. It comes with two shortbread sticks, so you think you’re meant to dip it into the chocolate, but once you try it you find that the chocolate is completely solid. It’s hard to eat with the large spoon you’re given – a small one would be better – and it sticks so hard to the spoon that you have to scrape it off with your teeth.

The Drink
A short but sweet international wine list starts at £19 for a bottle and £5 per glass, with every option available by the carafe as well. Cocktails like daiquiris and martinis are well priced at £8 each, whilst pitchers of drinks like sangria and mojitos run about £20. Juices, soft drinks and beer are also available and the £1 cover charge will take care of as much water as you could ever need, served in vintage style jugs.

The Last Word
When you’re paying about £80 for a three course meal for two – not including drinks –you expect the food to be better than this. The Boundary Rooftop might make a nice spot for a summertime drink but there’s no point in eating here when the downstairs restaurant is similarly priced, worth every penny and far more deserving of your expenditure.

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