Set in Grade II listed Northumberland House - a building steeped in history and grandeur - Boyd's Brasserie has taken on a less grand look in its recent refurbishment. Thankfully, the menu has also had a revamp, and its modern approach to British dining is more on the mark.

The Venue
Entering through Northumberland House’s revolving doors, Boyd's Brasserie can be found at the rear of the attractive entrance hall. It's separate to the Grand Hotel, but that doesn't mean that Boyd's ignores the hotel restaurant aesthetic. Its tall ceilings, swathes of marble, column walls and lavish chandeliers are met with a carpeted floor and a central, black marble bar. However, taking on a recent refurbishment saw Boyd's try to escape its historic charm and get with the times. The result is somewhat confused, with the lavish natural elements of this brasserie coupled with coloured Perspex chairs, Boyd's-emblazoned cushions and black, furry poufs and armchairs in the bar area. This new décor is young and funky, although not exactly tasteful, looking a little mismatched with the crisp and formal white tablecloths.

The Atmosphere
Although the table service is quite formal and staff are dressed in black and white uniform (even the cufflinks are branded by Boyd’s), none of the fustiness you might expect is present. Waiting staff are warm and down to earth, but authoritative on the new menu options, too. Although Boyd's is trying to shake off being seen as a hotel restaurant, you can still expect plenty of solo diners popping down from their rooms for a convenient bite to eat. These diners are joined by bigger parties or couples, treating themselves to some fine fare.

The Food
One benefit of the 2012 update at Boyd's is the starter menu of British tapas, which may sound a bit pretentious but, in practice, works really well. Staff recommend two plates per person (£7.90 for two dishes, £3.50 for each additional dish) and the small sizes make it a light but satisfying way to start the meal. And some of these tapas are really inventive with cockle and caper popcorn really standing out on the menu. These cockles come coated in batter while the capers are also deep fried, giving them a real crunch. With a squeeze of lemon, this is a fun dish, if not a little salty from a few too many capers. Belly of pork comprises three small chunks of incredibly tender pork with a small slab of crunchy crackling delicately perched on top. On the side is an apple sauce, which helps moisten the dish up nicely. Gnocchi with wild mushrooms is surprisingly light, with a rich, nutty and earthy cep sauce. And chicken liver pate is deliciously rich but desperately crying out for more than just the three thin crisp breads served on the side.

Reverting back to classic British dishes for main course options continues Boyd’s confusion of modernity and tradition. The food is delicious, but, in typical hotel fashion, is definitely overpriced, especially when side orders at £2.70 each are a necessity with all menu options. The Scotch prime beef burger, served regular (£12.50), with cheese (£14) or with rossini (£16.50), is made up of a very moist and tender patty of 28-day-aged rib eye steak. It comes inside a grilled, rustic bun with pickles and tomato, but so needs a relish or sauce to enliven things, and indeed, make it easier to chew. And disappointingly, it's served with just a side salad, making chips a much-needed addition.

The Middle White pork chop with apple sauce and crackling (£13.20) is a hefty cut of meat that will please even the biggest appetite. It comes with a tasty gravy, but not enough of it for such a big slab of meat. Broccoli with garlic and chilli, or some other vegetable side order, is much needed, too. There’s also the option of pie and a pint, but don’t let this fool you – the pie and pint deal for two (£39.50) is served with Claret or Chablis by the pint, not your usual bitter.

Picking up again with the inventive flare of the first course, desserts are quite imaginative, whilst championing the Great British pud. The damson bakewell and apple pie ice cream (£6.50) is a really good choice, offering a plum variation on the traditional, moist cake and pairing it with an incredible ice cream. It tastes of toffee apples and the surprise of popping candy laced inside makes for a real talking point. And apple and blackberry crumble (£6.50), served with a jug of custard, is another comforting and classic British dessert.

The Drink
The drinks menu is vast and varied, with an emphasis on wine – what you’d expect from a venue like Boyd’s. The wine list is comprehensive with an agreeable balance between old and new world bottles. Whites are categorised as light, fresh and fruity; aromatic and medium bodied; or elegant and refined, whilst reds are either juicy and fruity or warming and hearty. This makes it easy enough to find the right bottle for your meal. But if you are unsure, the South African Stellenrust Chenin Blanc (£27) is a good place to start, and it's robust enough take most flavours. Or why not try something a bit closer to home – the Primrose Hill Bacchus (actually from Tenterden's Chapel Down) is £34 for a bottle. There’s also a private cellar menu, with wines coming direct from Charles Boyd’s very own vineyard in France (bottles start at £25).

For something a bit more modern and playful, and in keeping with the restaurant’s revamp, try the cocktail menu, with champagne (£10), signature (£9) and modern cocktails (£8). Absinthe plays a part in quite a few of these drinks, such as the Boyd’s Pink Fairy (£9) with Pernod absinthe, raspberry, strawberry liqueur, lychee juice and Peychaud's Bitters. And for sophisticated afternoon drinking, cream teas are served with homemade scones, jam and clotted cream for £6.90.

The Last Word
It feels as though Boyd’s is straddling two styles in order to please all. If customers can look beyond the aesthetic clash, hopefully they’ll enjoy the classic British dishes and their modern twists that make this menu something out of the ordinary for what is pretty much hotel restaurant dining.

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