A good idea executed questionably. London is well overdue an excellent northern European drinking hall, but Brew Wharf isn’t it – not yet, anyway.

The Venue
Situated in the arches of a railway bridge, and a 30 second walk from Borough Market, Brew Wharf is an airy, modern sort of place. There are two main rooms – the bar area and a dining room – plus a terrace outside. The mosaic tiling on the floor is a nice touch, although the addition of a big screen showing pop videos in the bar is an appalling mistake.

The Atmosphere
With its high vaulted ceiling, Brew Wharf will never generate the sort of cosy atmosphere you would expect from a more traditional beer drinker’s pub. Its loud when busy and relaxing when its not: this is a place that tends to appeal to the posher end of the market and that’s reflected in the clientele - a mixture of local office workers, foodies and younger beer drinkers. There’s a definite shortage of traditional ale lovers’ beards and bellies here.

The Drink
This is where Brew Wharf scores heavily – as well as its own, brewed-on-site ales (which, for some unknown reason, are served ice-cold), there are four or five beers from the Greenwich-based Meantime Brewery on tap and a fine selection of bottled beers. Particularly recommended is the Brooklyn Lager, an intensely hoppy take on that classic beer style that should appeal to beer bores and novices alike. There’s also a short, France-focused wine list.

The Food
The menu, which changes on a semi-regular basis, is promising: anywhere that serves cassoulet or braised shank of lamb is on the right track. Unfortunately, the execution is not quite right. The former, for example, is rather short on the rich, heart-stopping porkiness that marks out the real deal. To be fair, the chips are good and it’s hard to go wrong with a pint of prawns.

The Last Word
This is a decent place to try a host of excellent beers – the pity is, the overall experience could be so much better.

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