Controversial Aberdeenshire brewer BrewDog has finally established a London outpost, opening its fourth bar, the first outside Scotland, in trendy Camden Town. And, as with BrewDog beers, if you ignore the brewery’s provocative antics, you’ll find the quality speaks for itself.

The Venue
Down Bayham Street, off Camden’s main drag but still only a few steps from the Tube, BrewDog Camden occupies the former shell of street corner Victorian pub the Laurel Tree. Inside the single drinking area, the high ceiling and old pillars are the only heritage giveaway: otherwise the space has been stylishly made over with bare brick, walls clad in gym-style parquet wood tiles and bar and drinking shelves surfaced in dark grey stone – perhaps a tip of the hat to the ‘granite city’ of Aberdeen, a short distance from the brewery. Benches and stools are supplemented by sofa-strewn cubby holes. Downstairs there’s a second smaller bar in a more lounge-style space, which is sometimes used for events and beer tastings.

The Atmosphere
This is self-consciously edgy and combative BrewDog in the heart of Camden cool – a tank was parked outside for a photo opportunity on launch day - so you might expect a combination of fashion victim hauteur and sneering punk attitude, but thankfully such expectations turn out to be confounded. The sizeable crowds it already attracts are lively and predominantly youthful but good humoured and friendly; the staff, though clearly busy, are warm, attentive and informative. What unites everyone is an enthusiasm for craft beer and a desire to welcome anyone keen to explore, even the most seasoned real ale drinkers.

The Food
The food range is limited but thoughtful and well priced. The burger recipes (£5-£7) have been devised by TV MasterChef winner Tim Anderson. Pizzas and cheese and meat boards are alternative options.

The Drink
Beer rules here, with BrewDog’s own beers heavily but by no means exclusively featured. There’s the capacity for up to 26 keg lines, though currently a mere 17 are in use. Around 10 are dedicated to a wide range of beers in varied styles from the owning brewery, with strengths from under 3% ABV to approaching 20%. 5AM Saint, Hardcore and Punk IPA are regulars; others could include dark beers, seasonals, specials and exotica like ultra-strong Tokyo* or a rare experimental beer in the Abstrakt series. BrewDog bottled beers are also sold.

Guest draughts, and much of the remarkable 140-strong bottled list, are drawn from the more experimental international craft brewers. You may well spot Alesmith, Ballast Point, Bear Republic, Cigar City, Green Flash, Lagunitas, Southern Tier and Stone from the USA; Baird and Hitachino Nest from Japan; Evil Twin, Mikkeller, and Nøgne-Ø from Scandinavia; and Epic from New Zealand, including some rare and exclusive beers. Other British brewers, and even well-respected German and Belgian names, are conspicuous by their absence. Also absent is cask beer of any sort – though BrewDog brew it, sometimes very well, they make a point of infuriating CAMRA purists by banning it from their own bars, leaving something of a gap in the coverage.

The bar keeps a few wines and spirits – more unusual varieties rather than everyday brands – but if you ask for these it may be politely suggested that you try a beer instead. Staff are competent and keen to advise and recommend, and there are deals on “tasting floats” of four third-pint measures to encourage exploration.

The Last Word
BrewDog’s co-founder James Watt recently dismissed practically every other British brewery as beneath contempt in a typically provocative outburst, so it’s tempting to judge his own beers harshly. The truth is they’re generally quite good - not as good as several other British brewers or some of BrewDog’s American idols, but good enough to provide the centrepiece they do here. The wide guest range, great atmosphere and zeal for beer evangelism also make this a welcome new opening. It seems this is one punk dog that, despite its noisome yapping, can easily be persuaded to roll over and let you tickle its tummy.

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