Gastropubs are feeling the backlash, with many pubs claiming to be more gastro than their menus warrant simply to hike up their prices. Brewers Inn in Wandsworth manages to achieve its gastropub status with a gorgeous dining room; however, the standard of the food and service lets it down a little.

The Venue
Situated a short walk from Wandsworth overland station, Brewers Inn sits on a busy crossroads in South London. The bar area is large and extends into two rooms. There is a range of seating to suit everyone from cute standalone booths to chairs and tables. If you love to relax into a body-swallowing leather sofa when you’re sipping your wine, this is the place to do it.

The dining room is located at the rear of the restaurant and also has a range of tables to suit everybody - from intimate two-person tables to large, long dining tables. The decor is pretty standard with traditional wooden floors, chalk specials boards, panelled walls and some exposed walls. It's brightly lit and feels extremely welcoming. There is also a nice, modern outside terrace that is heated to allow for wintertime smokers not to catch a death of cold.

The Atmosphere
On weekday evenings you might find yourselves rattling around this roomy pub, as not many locals seem to make the trip here. However, it also serves the hotel guests (it has branched out into accommodation as well), which means you’ll never be on your own. At the weekend, the number of punters swells as it enjoys the benefits of being in a residential area. The pub is bright and welcoming and the bar staff are friendly and knowledgeable.

In the restaurant it feels slightly more intimate, and all the tables are candlelit. The service is variable and it seems to be luck of the draw who serves you at each course. The range is from very polite and friendly to surly and unenthusiastic. Service can really make or break a meal on any occasion, and this lets the Brewers Inn down somewhat.

The Food
Brewers Inn serves up general pub fare but at fairly high prices. Burgers, steak, fish and chips, and cottage pie all feature heavily. There are chef’s specials but these seem to be pretty standard and lack gastronomic imagination.

The 8oz fillet steak comes with chips or rosemary potatoes, wild field mushrooms and grilled tomatoes and is accompanied with a pot of either garlic butter sauce (which is left to solidify before serving, meaning it must be spread on) or pepper and brandy sauce. The vegetables are uninspiring with little flavour but do the job of bulking up the meal. The steak itself is chewy and pretty disappointing considering it will set you back £18. The sausage and bubble, however, is very meaty with a hearty, rich red onion gravy that is full of flavour and has plenty of chunks of onion. The bubble is also a nice variant on plain mash. The sausages are subject to change but beef and ale are a delicious option.

The menu is not lengthy, and offers small plates, sharing platters and ciabatta sandwiches, too. The dessert menu is short but will satisfy a sweet craving. The lemon cheesecake with raspberry sauce is far too zingy and lacks the creamy indulgence you hope to find with a decent cheesecake. There are also ice creams and traditional English puddings to choose from.

The Drinks
There is a good, extensive wine menu serving both red and white wine drinkers alike. They are nicely split into European and New World wine, too, so connoisseurs can easily scan read the menu and select what they’re after. The Pinot Grigio and Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc are both very decent. A large glass comes in at around £5. There is also a range of bottled and draught beers on offer. The bottles include Youngs Ales and Corona and the draughts sell both the standard (Kronenburg) and special (Staropramen).

The Last Word
It’s time to sort the pubs from the gastropubs. Brewers Inn does well on appearances with its beautifully refurbished bar and restaurant; however, it's sadly let down by the unimaginative menu. If they up their game a bit, this pub could be really big news.

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