Carvosso's at 210

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 1 review

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210 Chiswick High Road,
Chiswick,
London,
W4 1PD

(020) 8995 9121

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMark O'Donnell05/05/2010
If you’re a firm believer that the capital’s high streets are increasingly homogenised zones, then you’ll find plenty of evidence on Chiswick High Road, where no less than three Starbucks sit within a 5-minute walk from each other. Thankfully, against a backdrop of coffee chains and mid-range restaurants there are a good number of Chiswickian idiosyncrasies, but none have more character packed into their walls than Carvosso’s wine bar and restaurant.

The Venue
The building Carvosso’s calls home dates back to the 19th Century and in its former life it was a police station complete with stables and its own cells to lock-up any locals that got a bit rowdy. Nowadays, one of the cells has been converted into a walk-in fridge and the rest of the features have been faithfully restored where possible. The venue’s most inspired feature – an inner courtyard-stroke-garden-terrace enclosed on all sides by high walls – is one of the best spots in W4 for al fresco drinks and dining, and there are private corners and alcoves, set off the main bar area and upstairs on the spacious first floor which also has use of its own bar and toilets for private bookings.

One of the most visible themes running through this eccentric eatery is a propensity of paintings depicting a randy painter in various inebriated states with women in suggestive poses and very little clothing to cover their modesty. This titillating old school innuendo style won’t be to everyone’s tastes but it certainly makes a change from the identikit canvasses and sepia photos you see everywhere else.

The Atmosphere
Carvosso’s has plenty of people on first name terms with staff and management, a sign that repeat custom is very much at the heart of this much-loved business. In addition, the courtyard has a great buzz about it, particularly on long, sunny afternoons and evenings and staff are absolutely delightful.

The Food
A respect for seasonal food is evident on the menu: a new crop of asparagus spears (£7.50) served with a voluminous hollandaise sauce is absolutely perfect. The vibrant spears taste like they’ve just been plucked from the ground and with a smattering of crushed sea salt and the tart, eggy Hollandaise, it’s a simple dish that’s absolutely delicious.

Mains offer popular staples such as pork belly (£14.75) and rib-eye steak (£19.75) but, on a warmer evening, a recommendation of shell-on prawns with mango salad is a very good one. Specks of red chilli give a little heat to proceedings and this is countered by a dash of squeezed lime juice. Crushed peanuts bring a crunchy consistency to the dish and the smokey flavour of the seared prawns and the exotic flavour of the mango makes it a dish with plenty going on.

A handful of options are on the dessert menu. Jude’s ice cream, a cheese selection and lime cheesecake are amongst the list, but a sticky toffee pudding is hard to resist. It arrives piping hot, sticky and calorific, with a single scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side to offset the gooey toffee sauce. It’s a fine version of a British classic.

Set menus are available between 12pm-7pm, where you can enjoy 2 courses for £13.50 and 3 courses for £15.50 from a reduced menu. Their Sunday roast, with meat sourced from local butcher extraordinaire, Macken Bros, is another popular offering.

The Drink
Cocktails (£6.95) are shaken and stirred in the bar and the outdoor area is certainly the sort of place for a boozy afternoon fuelled by Martinis. Wine is very much at the forefront of Carvosso’s serving too, and a lengthy list has plenty of well selected bottles including an award-winning Chateau Fabre Corbieres, a French blend that combines Syrah, Grenache and Carignan grapes, for £18.50 a bottle. You will also find a cellar section dedicated to wine from Boredeaux, something connoisseurs will get immense pleasure from drinking their way through.

The Last Word
An eccentric independent on a stretch that’s got more than its fair share of chains, Carvosso’s is a charming venue that’s just as good for drinks in the outdoor garden as it is for dinner in the converted stables.
Carvosso's at 210 has been reviewed by 1 users
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