57-59 West Smithfield,
Barbican,
London,
EC1A 9DS
0872 148 3816
The ViewLondon Review
I shall get my major gripe about Cellar Gascon over with first. It is not a cellar. If the owners think it is, then I hate to disappoint them; but it is in fact on the ground floor.
Bless them, however, for compensating for this by trying to make it as Gascon as possible – to the extent of having painted a gaudy blue and purple map on the wall with which you may inform yourself better about the geography of Gascony. I felt that this was a little optimistic, but touchingly thorough all the same.
There is also a conceivably continental atmosphere to this bar, which is deeply soothing if you’ve trudged up High Holborn and around Smithfield Market in order to find it.
A heartening number of full wine bottles glint seductively at you as you walk in. Mahogany-coloured leather panels and fabulous squishy swivel-stools with back support, low lighting and deep lavender paintwork make for very salubrious surroundings.
Indeed, the place has hit the nail of comfort so squarely on the head that sitting here is rather like stewing in a rich, smooth gravy – and I mean that in a nice way.
The ashtrays are generously proportioned ceramic flowerpots, whilst behind the bar; loops of saucisson are draped with chic abandon around an alarming looking squished leg of pork. I presume all of this is to reiterate (in case the map hadn’t convinced you) that this was a rustic French kind of enterprise. And indeed, the food looks like traditional French cooking at a very fair price.
I’m happy to say, though, that Cellar Gascon’s rusticity doesn’t extend too far. Aside from the measly depth of the benches by the window, this is an enterprise that is all about comfort, and understated sophistication – attentive staff, a poised and suave sort of crowd, and flatteringly low lighting.
If all this is representative of the eponymous region, then Gascony is going straight on to my list of desired destinations.