Escape the mobs at Embankment in this labyrinthine underground wine bar and restaurant.

The Venue
Nestled under the arches, just off the pedestrianised Villiers Street, Champagne Charlies ale and port house is easy to miss from the unassuming exterior. Only a Victorian style placard and a wine barrel at the top of a well-lit flight of stairs give any indication to descend. Once inside, the moody lighting and exposed brickwork instantly evince the feel of a Regency wine cellar, crossed with a Victorian pub, an impression compounded by the décor: the walls are adorned with cooperage tools, vintage wine bottles, and 18th century prints. Hand painted wooden signs abound, ranging from reproduction Victorian advertising signs, to the purely functional (toilets this way), and promote the establishment as “purveyors of the finest sherries, ports and wines from around the world”.

The furniture is functional but comfortable, and the dark-wood chairs and tables are in keeping with the wine cellar-cum-pub feel. One of the nicest aspects of the place are the private dining rooms – otherwise known as “offices” – in which one can be closed off from the rest of the dining area, but still survey the other diners through the large glass windows. These rooms can accommodate anywhere between 6 and 12 people, and if you are dining as a group, it is definitely worth booking one of these tables in advance.

The Atmosphere
The underground nature of the place gives Champagne Charlies a certain intimacy, but it does so without feeling too claustrophobic. Customers include large parties, groups of businessmen, and couples. Since large groups are generally boxed off in their aquarium-like dining rooms, the rest of the open dining area has a relatively quiet ambience. This, combined with the unashamedly un-trendy surroundings, makes the venue a great place for a date. The only stumbling block may be that the staff, who while very prompt, efficient, and well informed, can be a little over friendly at times.

The Food
Despite the name, the food at Champagne Charlies should be the main draw. The reasonably priced menu (starters around £7, and mains from £10-£15) offers well-cooked and well-presented British classics, usually with an interesting twist. The home-made pate is fantastic, and the lamb chop served with spinach and potato croquette has all the taste of a well-proportioned Sunday roast, but with far superior presentation. A final jewel in the crown is a fantastic list of very tasty cheeses.

The Drink
As you might expect the wine list is extensive. The proprietors pride themselves on their hand-selected bottles, and there are generally at least two or three wines (old world and new) to complement every dish. Also on offer is a good selection of bottled beers, ales, cider, and spirits but, other than Pimms, there is not a cocktail to be had at any price.

The Last Word
Hidden away from the hubbub above ground, Champagne Charlies combines a charmingly rustic location with excellent food – a winning combination.

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