From those very capable hands of Tom and Ed Martin comes another impressive gastropub, bringing what works so well at their other venues to this neglected little street in the City.

The Venue
With the Martin brothers being some of the first to appreciate the potential of the gastropub (with The Well, in Clerkenwell), and realising that potential with their current portfolio (The Botanist, The Gun and a fair few more), they clearly know what they’re up to. And this new place certainly looks great, with an attractive - if cramped - bar area leading through to a spacious enough restaurant area decked out in white wood panels, brushed wooden flooring, light green bucket chairs, simple tables and few little bits of foliage. Spotlights keep things nice and bright, and a smattering of art gives character to a venue that ultimately feels like a really well-judged, modern interpretation of a classic Victorian dining room. It’s all really well done and looks quite the natty part, except that is, for some Swarovski-encrusted taps in the bathroom… they just look a bit naff.

The Atmosphere
There’s something of a buzz about the place, even in its early days, so expect to vie for room with City workers and foodies from further afield in that busy and bustling bar. Once you’re through to the restaurant itself though, things are calmer, with a perfectly pitched, informal atmosphere helped in no small part by an affable (yet impeccable) staff that includes a sommelier delightfully conspicuous by his lack of pomposity. Wonders never cease. It’s certainly more gastro than it is pub, but this is somewhere that manages to do exactly what gastropubs should: serve quality food in an environment a world away from the constricting stuffiness of high end venues.

The Food
It’s all terribly British, with breakfasts incorporating porridge, kippers and Full Englishes, and afternoon teas offering ‘traditional’ and ‘gentleman’s’ options. Dinner continues the theme, and showcases an admirable emphasis on provenance, so expect to see things like Isle of Benbecular langoustines, Lincolnshire smoked eel and Clonakilty black pudding on what’s a pretty hearty-sounding menu.

Diver caught Isle of Man king scallops (£9.50) are excellent, presented in their shells and served with a rich lemon and thyme sauce, and enough samphire to offer salty balance to the sweetness of the fish. The ham hock (£8) comes pulled and potted and with plenty of parsley, and baby gherkins bring a bit of sharpness to the well-seasoned meat.

The roast rack of Denham Castle lamb (£26) undoubtedly features really good quality lamb that’s cooked to a perfect pink, but the pea, broad bean and tomato cassoulet it’s served with feels just a little underwhelming. A bit more punch from what’s a very light scattering of mint might help. The roast cod fillet (line caught in the Atlantic, of course - £22) is a big hit though, with a huge bit of plump fish topped with a little parcel of shellfish ravioli and dressed astutely with a rich butter sauce. Sautéed Norfolk asparagus round a really good dish off well.

If you’ve got a sweet tooth then desserts are well worth a try too, with an excellent summer pudding (£6.50) topped with a mountain of fruit and served with a gooseberry parfait being bettered (just) by a very impressive sticky toffee pudding (£6.50), served with a sickly sweet yet oh-so-good salted peanut butter ice cream. And if you want a little hit of nostalgia, you can even get a classic knickerbocker glory (£8.50). Happy days.

The Drinks
The sommelier certainly knows his stuff, so if you let him pick your wine you’ll be in good hands. The list features plenty of old world bins, complemented by a few new world options, and some from burgeoning regions, including a particularly good Dobogo Dry Furmint 2009 from Hungary (£38). It’s a bold enough white to stand up to the lamb, but delicate enough to work with the fish; it’s really worth splashing out a little for this one. If you do want to keep things a little cheaper you certainly can, with plenty of options available by the glass, and a few comparatively cheaper bottles from the ETM Group themselves.

The beer options are also worth a mention, with the Dark Star Sunburst Ale, Harviestoun’s Porter and St. Austell Clouded Yellow being some of those cherry-picked from some of Britain’s best microbrewers. And if you fancy kicking things off with a cocktail or two, there are plenty of bespoke – and once again very British – concoctions, like the London Spritz and the English Cobbler, which both sound very patriotic.

The Last Word
Was there much doubt they’d get it right again? Ed and Tom’s winning formula works again: this place is a doozy.

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