For any restaurant to thrive in the somewhat dichotomous Clerkenwell, it must know itself well. Cicada clearly does, and seems increasingly confident in its recently refurbished skin - and with good reason.

The Venue
The longest-serving of the Ricker stable calls an unimposing '30s corner block just north of Clerkenwell Road home. Faithful to its architectural heritage there are nods to the speakeasy, with art-deco details combined with a simple modern elegance to deliver a relaxed, sophisticated dining room. That this can be achieved whilst a large bar area is in full swing is testament to some smart interior design. The bar’s own interior tips its hat to the area’s literary pedigree with the relaxed air of a reading room, reinforced by bookshelf wallpaper and rich furnishings which tempt those passing by to slip into a sofa for a cocktail.

The Atmosphere
The combination of bar and restaurant is a tricky one to pull off but the clever layout at Cicada means this sometimes awkward marriage enhances the experience of the dining space. The booths and tables feel intimate, whilst the odd fleeting glimpse of a mixologist in full flow at the bar grants those wanting a quicker dining experience their licence. Crucially the acoustics are spot on and the excellent and friendly staff ensure you feel as comfortable lingering over a romantic dinner for two as stopping by for a quick bite with friends on a night out. The restaurant’s attention to detail and care for its diners seems exemplified by the presence of cutlery in a bamboo pot on each table – at a swoop removing any potential embarrassment for those not keen on chopsticks.

The Food
Delivering pan-Asian cuisine with coherence and authenticity is the wrecking ground of many an enthusiastic restaurateur, but Cicada navigates its way through these rocky waters expertly. The menu is well balanced and draws on multiple influences to offer a wide range of extremely reasonably priced options. The pricing of the menu suggests you are about to be dished up some pretty standard high street fare but the food that leaves the kitchen here is superb.

Starters set the tone well. The edamame beans with soy and mirin (£2.50) - sensibly left on the table for grazing throughout the meal - are cooked superbly and retain perfect consistency and bite. The spicy tuna maki rolls (£5.00) show a deftness of touch and flavour that dedicated sushi restaurants would be proud of. Wonderfully fresh fish surrounded expertly with moist sushi rice is given several notes of flavour from the chives and wasabi that nestle alongside the tuna. An added layer of texture from a light tempura batter dappling the outside of each roll helps produces an extremely satisfying dish with just the right amount of kick. Dim-sum pastries filled with delicate, flaky black cod and succulent king prawn are excellent, with a black pepper miso sauce topping off the subtle flavours of the fish and pastry with a rich warmth.

Main courses continue these high standards. The beef fillet, black pepper and asparagus (£15) offers tender slices of good quality meat combined with crunchy char-grilled asparagus and a rich peppery sauce studded with delicious oyster mushrooms. Both the execution and the combination of flavours are excellent but a slightly heavy hand with the sauce ladle reveals an unwarranted lack of confidence in the core of the dish. Highest praise is reserved however for the rack of ribs in a delicious hoi-sin sauce with hints of anise. It is unfettered carnivorous joy to remove the meat from the bone, something that's amplified by exceptionally tender meat and a sticky, rich sauce – ribs this good could turn a McCartney.

The dessert menu offers a fairly limited but apt choice. The sorbets and ice creams take centre stage and the twenty minute chocolate pudding is intriguing but would benefit from being pointed out during main course. A hazelnut parfait with poached pears is technically perfect but the combination of delicate hazelnut and rich pear flavours don't seem natural bedfellows, particularly after the range of flavours that come before it – each element alone however is delicious.

The Drink
A carefully selected wine list - sensibly focusing on lighter wines of both colours - offers quality all the way through. The Carignan, a snip at £15.50, is a gentle and entirely appropriate accompaniment to the flavours on the plate and demonstrates the care of choice even at the cheaper end of the list. The cocktail menu is enticing and the rose martini expertly blended to allow the fragrance of the rose and gin to co-exist away from that cloying sweetness so often employed to mask a lack of talent with the shaker.

The Last Word
An even more affordable set lunch menu adds yet another string to Cicada’s bow and they undoubtedly deliver on that too. In an area characterised by its diversity, Cicada is a rare breed indeed – a jack of many trades and a master of most.

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