City Pipe may not win any awards for its decor or atmosphere but it offers an exceptional selection of wine.

The Venue
Located in a basement, City Pipe is dimly lit but otherwise doesn’t play on the cellar positioning that the decor could potentially take advantage of. The bar is instead very tidy – think white walls with abstract prints hanging from them, a stone floor and a modern, impersonal decor. There are some comfortable couches and armchairs but they are so tucked away that you only see the sea of chairs and tables, rigorously arranged in geometrical fashion.

The private area has a slightly medieval feel to it, furnished with an extra large table and Tudor-like chairs in dark wood. Some large glass bottles and wine paraphernalia are the only decoration and they are far from prominent.

The Atmosphere
Friday is the best day to visit City Pipe when they play host to a live jazz band after 7pm. The atmosphere is generally good as the bar quickly fills with the after work crowd. Any other day, the place is rather impersonal with people keeping strictly to themselves. That said, those conducting business here may appreciate the isolation and privacy.

The Food
The menu comprises of starters (£5-£7) and mains (£11-£21.75), and hot and cold sandwiches (£5.50-£11) for lunch or a lighter meal. The most interesting dishes are grilled wood pigeon breast, grilled guinea fowl breast, and a crayfish sandwich but you can also pick simpler dishes like shrimp, risotto, steak and battered cod. There is also a small selection of puddings (£5-£6.25).

In the evening, the menu offers nibbles (£2-£2.75), sharers (£7-£8) and tapas (all £4.50), with options like pan fried chorizo cooked in Rioja, spicy herbed meatballs and a tortilla plate (nachos, sour cream, salsa, guacamole, jalapenos and tortillas).

The Drink
City Pipe is a wine bar and the wine list is long and comprehensive, counting three dozen bottles not including sherry, Madeira, port or Champagne. Every bottle is well described and you can choose from an excellent selection of new and old world bottles. Most are single-grape and Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay dominate. Bottles start at £14 and go up to £65, although most are within the £19-£27 price range. Many are available by the glass as well. The selection of sherry, port, Madeira and pudding wines is also really good, counting almost ten bottles.

If you’re after sparkling varieties you can rely on six bottles, starting at £39 for the house Champagne rising to £69 for Laurent Perrier Rose. Beers are given very limited space with only Asahi, Budvar and Whitstable Bay ale (£3.55-£4.35) available.

The Last Word
The decor and atmosphere may not inspire but the fantastic selection of wine at City Pipe makes it worth a visit for anyone who values the grape.

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