Along a seemingly never ending leafy road in the quiet suburbia of East Finchley lies this gastropub. All shiny and new, it may be a little too gastropubby for some, but put your preconceptions on hold as this is something special.

The Venue
If you don’t hail from North London, then this will be a bit of a trek for you, based as it is up the annoyingly split Northern Line. However, it’s worth the trip - grab a magazine and stick on the iPod and you’ll hardly notice the distance trickle by. The pub is a rather lengthy walk up the main street and along Fortis Green - a pretty, leafy road, typical of this area. When you finally clear the trees, you’ll see the Clissold Arms in all its glory. A large, shining building that is especially welcoming on a cold, dark night, it beckons you softly inside.

Inside, you’ll find a typical gastropub – but that’s not a bad thing in this case. Definitely not retaining even the slightest hint of old man pub, the dining element to the decor permeates throughout. Stepping through the door, you’re met with lots of heavy pine tables and chairs, light wooden floors and neutral colours. Up a couple of stairs and to the left, you move into a second area with more of the same. Here you’ll also find a large, gleaming bar and – unusually for a gastropub – an open kitchen, which is a nice touch. There’s a chandelier thrown in for good measure, toned down with blackboards displaying the menu. Also be sure to keep an eye out for the photos of the Kinks – a London institution, this was the venue where they performed their first gig, way back in December 1960.

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere at the Clissold Arms is typical of many gastropubs – laid back and relaxing, it’s perfect for a chilled out date, catch up with mates or a meal with family. The staff are efficient, although as with many gastropubs you’ll need to refill your own wine. Especially good is the fact that, even early on in the week, this place can be quite busy, thriving with a gentle hum of diners laughing and chatting, making it a great place to visit if you want to go out early in the week but don’t want to be the only people in a restaurant.

The Food
This is where the Clissold Arms really blows away the competition. A well thought out menu of British classics mixed with a few unusual twists is what greets you. Recommended starters include the ham hock and parsley terrine on toasted sourdough with piccalilli. A delightful homemade feel permeates the dish – the terrine is chunky with a strong gammon flavour, the salad is lightly dressed with a vinegarette and the sourdough is grilled with dark charred lines that add an earthy feel to each bite. The piccalilli, however, is the crowning glory – chunky and crunchy, it adds a sharp, tangy bite to the dish. Although a heavy starter, it’s certainly full of flavour. If you prefer starters that are lighter, then the game consomme with duck tortellini and straw mushrooms is right on the money. The consomme is light with the duck flavours coming through strongly. Although there’s not a lot of duck, there’s enough to add balance to the dish, and the mushrooms add much needed colour and interest. Simply delicious. Starters come in at £6-£7, which is a decent price for the quality of the food.

Mains keep the tastebuds tingling with Ulverston lamb rump, bacon lardons, pearl onions, puy lentils and braised red cabbage. Those wary of lentils, having experienced hard, chewy examples in the past, need not worry; these are soft and gentle, providing a texture that’s not overpowering. The braised cabbage goes perfectly with the lamb, which is pink and tender – coming apart easily and full of juicy flavours. If you’re not a fan of lamb, then the 32 day aged Galloway sirloin steak with chips cooked in dripping and bearnaise sauce is another success. A tender steak, cooked to specification, is full of flavour and well cooked – not over or underdone. The chips, however, are especially worthy of mention. Thick, homemade chunks of potato with a strong flavour thanks to the dripping, they’re pretty special – although perhaps a little salty for some tastes. Also be sure to try the cauliflower cheese on the side. Not swimming in creamy cheese, it’s pretty dry on first inspection, but the flavours are infused into the cauliflower. With mains ranging from £10.50-£17.50, there’s something for every budget, and you could quite happily come here and just enjoy a main for a cheap meal.

The prize, however, goes to the desserts. If you’re not a fan of sweets then try the Neils Yard cheese board – one of the best cheese providers in London. Alternatively, go for the rhubarb and apple crumble with vanilla sauce (which turns out to be a delicious custard). The fruit isn’t too stodgy and the crumble lightly sprinkled over the top adds a crunchy texture. The custard is light and creamy, and comes in a separate pot so you can choose how much you pour. If fruit isn’t your thing then the chocolate pot is equally delightful. A heavy chocolate moose-like dessert with chocolate shavings on top, the fruit side is what really makes this dish. Similar to what you’d get in a mince pie, the rich fruits of sliced almonds, apricots and raisins in a strong gloopy sauce cuts through the chocolate to add a sweet bite. Well put together, this dish is a must-try. At £5 a dessert, it won’t break the bank – and you can always share.

The Drink
Unsurprisingly perhaps for a pub, Clissold Arms has a great selection of beer. Bottles are reasonable at around £3 and include Budvar, Peroni, Corona, Cobra, Becks and Westons Organic Cider (£3.95). Draught beers are also decent, also costing around £3 and include Amstel, Harveys, Landlord, London Pride, Kronenberg, Stella, Ruddles County, Guinness, San Miguel, Staropramen, Leffe, Hoegaarden, Addlestones Cider.

If you prefer wine with your meal then there’s a great selection of thirty whites and reds from across the globe, ranging from £13-£60 a bottle. Although there are no descriptions as to the flavours of the wine, the staff will help you decide. Alternatively, go for the Bourgogne Blanc for £23.75 – an astonishingly high quality wine for the price. Crisp and light everything from the colour to the smell and the taste is light and perfect for a mid-week tipple. If you want something different then there are three roses to choose from or Champagne – with a prosecco coming in at just £19.95 for those on a budget.

The Last Word
Clisshold Arms is a great addition to East Finchley and is worth making the trip if you’re not from around North London. With an interesting history and top notch gastro grub, it will keep you coming back for more.

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