This intriguing and capacious pub in the Savoy complex on the Strand is now a reliable Nicholson’s boozer, offering a decent choice of beer and solid pub grub in curious surroundings.

The Venue
There’s much garbled and inaccurate folk history attached to this pub on the site of what was once a riverside palace owned by the Counts of Savoy (Savoie in France). An earlier hostelry, just to the east in Fountain Court, was known as the Coal Hole, most likely after an 18th century landlord nicknamed the Singing Collier. The name rubbed off on the present venue when the whole site was redeveloped into the current complex of buildings centred on the Savoy Hotel by Richard D’Oyly Carte of Gilbert and Sullivan fame in the late 19th century. So don’t believe the tales of the pub once being the hotel’s coal cellar, and also treat with cynicism the claims that this is the place early 19th century actor Edward Alleyn founded his boozing club The Wolves. Despite the Kean memorabilia on display, that was the old Coal Hole. In fact the current building was purpose built in 1904 as the Strand Wine Lodge – you can still just see this name over the doors, and trace the SWL monogram in the window leading.

The wine theme explains some of the decorations in the sumptuous interior, such as the bunches of grapes being carried by the classical-style bas relief figures high up on the walls. These and other decorative features like the dazzling terracotta fireplace earn the pub a regional listing in CAMRA’s inventory of historic pub interiors. As well as the main bar upstairs there’s a less spectacular but still attractive wood-panelled wine bar downstairs, with a rear door that leads out onto what would once have been the river bank.

The Atmosphere
Given the imposing interior and the location next door to a major hotel a few steps from Covent Garden, Trafalgar Square and Charing Cross station, it’s not surprising this isn’t particularly a locals’ pub, with many customers passing through and some just coming to gawp. But it’s friendly enough and there are some comfortable corners, notably the snug by that magnificent fireplace.

The Food
The pub offers the enhanced pub grub that’s standard in Nicholson’s houses, at prices a little higher than some. A full cooked breakfast is £6.95 with both standard and vegetarian options and main courses might include half a roast duck (£12.95), vege or meat sausages and mash (£8.45) or a choice of three pies and mash (from £9.25). During the day there’s sandwiches (£6-£7 including chips or salad) and light lunches like pressed pork and sage terrine or a warm halloumi salad (both £7.95).

The Drink
Between eight and 10 cask beers are usually served including the regular trio of Fuller’s London Pride, Sharp’s Doom Bar and St Austell Tribute and a changing selection from Nicholson’s seasonal guest ale list which stretches to microbrewers like Acorn, Cropton, Itchen Valley, Moor, RCH, Roosters, Stonehenge and White Horse, at around £3.60 a pint. The keg taps are enlivened by Pilsner Urquell and Franziskaner wheat beer as well as British-brewed premium lager Suffolk Blonde and more standard offerings, while the odd gem like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Duvel might pop up in the fridge. The building’s original vinous theme isn’t forgotten: the wine list runs to 25 entries including many by the glass (175ml £3.75-£5.25), mainly from the new world but with the odd traditional European.

The Last Word
A well looked after heritage pub in a very central location, the Coal Hole is worth a pint just on the grounds of its entertaining interior. The range of beer on offer is a bonus and may well prompt you to linger.

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