39 Chepstow Place,
Notting Hill,
London,
W2 4TS
(020) 7221 7620
The ViewLondon Review
So what exactly is Georgian food? It’s a taste adventure that’s for sure. Subtle spices, succulent meats and unique dishes that we Brits might not have tried before… a true foodie education.
The Venue
Colchis has effortless-chic down. Brasserie style booths and dark pine tables adorn a back dining room that overlooks a quaint summer terrace. The front bar and dining area sings of a Parisian train carriage; all mirrored walls and dim lighting - the perfect spot to canoodle with a date. The location is stunning – three million pound apartments tower around the restaurant – and Colchis lives up to its rich neighbours with beautifully adorned tiled floors, brass work and candlelight.
The Atmosphere
Guests are greeted by Maurizio, the restaurant’s general manager and general food educator. His excitement and flair for the concept rings throughout the dining room as he works the room explaining the menu, dishes and wines. The Notting Hill location has attracted some well-to-do types enjoying a fine bottle of red and some great Georgian nibbles, as well as what appears to be the majority of London’s Russian elite – only a good sign of the food to come. The atmosphere is relaxed, as is the walk back to the tube after a meal, a slice of Georgia on a typically British London street.
The Food
The menu is split into starters, mains and desserts, but Georgians tend to share dishes, opting to order throughout the meal in order to move around the menu more freely. Sticking with the menu’s concept, there are starters such as the pkhali platter, a slate board generously topped with a variety of mind-blowing vegetable pâtés. These include an aubergine with walnut cream, a leek puree with Georgian spices and a spinach puree, all dotted with plump pomegranate seeds. This dish, with the accompanying bread, can easily serve two and only costs £7.50, the creamy pâtés providing taste combinations not often experienced in these here parts.
The freshly baked khachapuri – cheese filled bread - is a must have. And is pretty good value once again - it's £8.50 and there's enough to feed an army. This also goes well with the ajapsandali (£5.50), a surprisingly Indian-influenced, slow-cooked aubergine ragout with sweet peppers and an interesting blend of spices.
Well priced mains include roasted quail with sea salt-crusted sea bass and chakhaluli (slow cooked veal shin) for £19.50. This dish is served in pulled strips - melt in the mouth and gamey - and accompanied by sweet baby beetroot, which cuts through the meat impressively. A more classic choice is the shashlyk (kebab style grilled meat) with a mixture of lamb, veal and pork coming in at just £21.50. The meats are served skewered with sweet and crunchy roasted potato chips and a fresh and zingy mint and tomato dressing.
If you're able to continue on to desserts, then humble, homely flavours carry through to the end of the meal with sweet treats including a lemon tart served with a side of decadent and bitter dark chocolate sauce, or baked quince in a creamy vanilla dressing that's perfectly cooked - much like everything else.
If you fancy sampling how the Georgians do brunch, then you'll be very well rewarded: turns out they know what they're doing earlier in the day, too. A 'full Georgian' (£9) is remarkably good value, considering the excellent quality in the crisp bacon, the rich sausage, the mushroom, the tomato and the brilliantly yellow (if ever so slightly overseasoned) scrambled eggs. It's the 'lobio' beans that really make it though, with haricot beans in a tomato sauce with bacon, parsley and plenty of pepper.
Eggs Benedict (£8.50) is also pretty good, and there are plenty of heavy, authentic brunches (like the Adjaruli Khachapurl - lots of bread, cheese and egg), but pride of place on any brunch table should go to the very impressive extra spicy Bloody Mary (£8), with chipotle vodka giving the lashings of Tabasco and pepper a hot helping hand.
The Drinks
Georgia is famously known as being one of the oldest producers of wine on earth, but even the water at Colchis impresses, which is novel in the extreme. Bottled back in Georgia, Borjouni sparkling water offers a bold mineral taste that's surprisingly, and strangely, appealing. Wine wise, the white Mtsvane has an almost dessert wine aroma but a clean, fresh base – great with those vegetable pâtés. The meat main courses cry for a bold red and the Saperevi provides that with a plummy, fruity warmth. Colchis doesn’t discriminate and also houses some fantastic French and English wines as well as spirits such as Grapa Chacha – a local tipple that should be taken with considerable warning.
The Last Word
Given the location, Colchis could be mistaken for a good, local neighborhood restaurant. However, its excellent take on an overlooked cuisine means it firmly deserves to be seen as somewhere worth making a trek for.
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