The big brother of the Corney and Barrow family proves that the chain can really deliver in a truly stunning venue.

The Venue
Dominating Broadgate Circle like a leviathan, Corney and Barrow’s largest venue appears as a raised amphitheatre, curving in on itself to overlook the event arena below. Comparisons to a director’s box are easily made for this second floor bar with its floor-to-ceiling glass walls. The deep purple and black flooring leads to a large, sleek black marble bar glittering with a golden inlay and situated at the central apex of Broadgate Circle’s curve. A domineering entity in itself, its decoration with tall vases of lilies and oversized bottles of Champagne and Finlandia vodka only add to its presence.

Two chandelier-lit walkways of enclosed glass give way to the return of the slick flooring and stitched hessian covered walls that, by way of two smaller bars similar to their larger counterpart, ultimately culminate in glass double doors and two parasol-covered terraces; a God-send for both the exiled smoker or al fresco drinker. A swathe of traditional walnut-finished tables sitting proudly on their brushed chrome legs are aligned flush to the glass frontage overlooking the circle. The accompanying contemporary creams and vibrant green wood of the surrounding seats with their purple and black leather cushions juxtapose it all with their modern tones, offering a mix of comfort and style.

Further around the curve of the bar lie sensitively-lit alcoves offering privacy for care-free flirtation surrounded by red plush wall-sofas and low slung tables styled to tie in with the bar’s serving areas. Balconies on the internal curve of the bar reached by retractable walls offer extra seating when the sun shows itself and red leather bench seating offers the weary City boy or girl some respite even when the bar is at full capacity.

The Atmosphere
Like all the bars in the chain, Corney and Barrow at Broadgate Circle tends to draw a mixed gathering, whether banker, lawyer, PA or tourist. Although it does seem to attract a slightly younger crowd, perhaps attracted by the almost voyeuristic expanse of glass on both sides of the building and the ability to let their hair down so close to both work and their train home. Businesslike service matches the sharp suits and sharper tongues of the daytime trade, focussing on client entertainment, business deals and networking opportunities over a quick drink or a lengthier lunch.

By the time 5pm rolls around, however, the atmosphere experiences a notable charge. On the whole, this is a good thing with people happy to mix and mingle; however, like all large bars Corney and Barrow at Broadgate Circle does occasionally attract the odd punter who’s artificially inflated sense of self worth is as tawdry as their suit lining. Thankfully, in such as sizeable venue they’re easy avoided.

By day Corney and Barrow at Broadgate Circle is part entertainment venue, part restaurant and part boardroom-by-proxy, and the music, in its relaxed, unobtrusive presence, is an extension of this. As the largest bar in the chain, it’s not surprising that the atmosphere takes a sharp up-turn of an evening with contemporary funky house, RnB and soulful pop mixing with a smattering of pseudo-ironic nods to the fromage-laden tracks of yesteryear.

The Food
Corney and Barrow as a chain have become almost as recognised for their good quality fodder as for their fine wine and whilst they don’t claim to be Michelin star quality, their food is certain to have kept both City boy and tourist going in their quest for London’s golden paving slabs. A 7.30am opening allows ample time for a relaxed Full English at £8.75 with Londoner pork sausages, Norfolk bacon, grilled tomato, mushroom, beans and toast all available until 11.30am, or lighter options such as the vegetarian homemade granola served with almonds, cranberries, apricots and Greek yoghurt (£4.95), washed down with an Earl Grey for £1.95.

Seasonal is very much the in-Vogue term here with a lunch menu that is constantly in flux. Certain favourites manage to cling on all year round though, such as a £15.95 Mediterranean-inspired sharing platter of mint and orange marinated feta, pickled mushrooms and balsamic baby onion combined with an olive tapenade, sun-blushed peppers and red onion perfectly accompanied by filling potato wedges and a warm baguette.

The evening menu rings the changes with some dishes still suitable for the single diner, but a duly increased level of sharing options pave the way in the platters section, as a mix of lighter bar dishes allow smaller parties to share nibbles. Examples include the veggie spring rolls for £4.95, tempura prawns in a sweet chilli sauce for £5.95 or a large plate of nachos topped with all the trimmings at £6.95.

The Drink
Unapologetically a wine bar, it’s not entirely surprising that Pilsner Urquell is Corney and Barrow at Broadgate Circle’s one and only draught beer at £3.90 a pint. There are similarly priced bottled beers that encompass a range of nationalities and two British bottles, Ivanhoe and Innis and Gunn are also available at £3.65 and £4.30 respectively.

Despite the chain’s, ultimately undeserved reputation as the reserve of City boys that can afford expensive Reserves (let’s face it, who can these days?) Corney and Barrow at Broadgate Circle offers both a red and white house wine whose taste and body are in keeping with all that you expect from these famous wine merchants, priced at just £15.25 a bottle.

If the credit crunch hasn’t hit too hard, the fine wines change seasonally and are well worth sampling. Sold only by the bottle they encompass a wide variety of styles, from Chardonnay and Viognier to Merlot, Syrah and Corvina, at a wide variety of prices from £35-£135. Ultimately, taking in too many varietals to be included here, the white wine selection features an expanse of the perennial favourites of Sauvignon and Chardonnay, followed by their rarer cousins, whilst the range of reds encompass a similar breadth. Taking into account how seriously this bar takes its wine, they’re not priced too badly; still, don’t expect any change from a tenner if you’re buying two drinks or more.

The Last Word
Transgressing the confines of a typical City wine bar in almost every category means that this is a venue that’s worth finding any excuse to visit. Thanks to the area below there often is one, with summer offering cultural displays and installations, whilst winter holds the schadenfreude-based delights of the ice rink.

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