Corney and Barrow has a lot to offer the aspiring sommelier, with over 70 varieties of wine available by the glass. However, to everybody else it’s devoid of much personality.

The Venue
Corney and Barrow is the epitome of what a City bar should be: modern, large, minimal and - ultimately - impersonal. The glass walls running around the periphery of the bar leave you wishing for privacy and the furniture is standard and uninspiring. There are three large booths alongside tall wooden tables and their accompanying red chairs. The only visual appeal is the panels set into the back walls comprising silver disks that rather aptly resemble cashflow.

A private dining room with conference facilities is a bit nicer but you need to book to access it. During the summer, a patio increases the seating space

The Atmosphere
The cold decor reflects the clientele. Expect suits concluding business meetings over a glass of wine. That said, given its location these are the type of people Corney and Barrow evidently want to attract - they even have business breakfast options. Far from buzzing, the atmosphere is rather uninteresting.

The Food
The menu offers a few ubiquitous platters (£16.50 to serve 2-3, £32 to serve 5-6), sandwiches and beef burgers (£12), an antipasti plate (£9) and a selection of bar bites (£4-£7). The lunch menu includes elaborate sandwiches (£7-£12) and classic cuts of meat (£11-£18) served with all the trimmings.

The Drink
If you’re a wine connoisseur, Corney and Barrow certainly won’t disappoint. Their wine list is wonderfully uplifting thanks to a seemingly endless selection of quality whites and reds. They have entire pages of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot bottles with a dozen wines for each grape variety. The prices are not out of the ordinary, either, with bottles priced at £18-£40. Small (£5-£7.65) and large glasses (£6.25-£9.75) are available for almost every bottle. And there are many other grape varieties to try like Muscadet, Viognier and Gewurztraminer among others. The menu also offers a selection of fine wines (£40-£70).

The Champagne list is also rather grand. Prices vary between £40-£195. They also stock quality beers (£3.70-£4.35) like Kirin Ichiban, Bitburger, Steinlager Pure, Hahn Premium, Innis and Gunn, Ivanhoe, Pilsner Urquell and Hooky Bitter.

The Last Word
Corney and Barrow may be a bit soulless on the surface but it’s heavenly if you love wine.

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