One of Corney and Barrow’s ubiquitous bakers dozen of bars may lie in the shadow of Tower 42 but it’s yet to be put in the shade.

The Venue
Corney and Barrow, one of London’s most prestigious wine merchants, first had a presence on Old Broad Street way back in 1780. Of course, much has changed since then and its current incarnation is as a contemporary wine bar featuring long dark wooden table tops supported by columns of burnished steel surrounded by burgundy leather stools, whilst smaller tables allow more intimate groups to relax on plush upholstered chairs.

The seating stretches along the length of the light-tiled floor until it meets a set of steps descending to an area primarily set aside for lunchtime dining. The bar itself is expansive with underlit wooden panelling finished in a similar style to the tables. Thankfully, it’s also well staffed and even at its busiest the bar queue is manageable and, at all but peak hours, table service is on hand for a more civilised experience. In a wry nod to the City Boy stereotype, the bar also features a small humidor, although the selection isn’t as vast as your average cigar-toter might like.

One thing that strikes you, in spite of the dark wood and leather furnishings, is the lightness of the bar. Where its contemporaries in The City can often be drab and dark - places where you might stumble across backroom dealings - Corney and Barrow Old Broad Street aims for the other end of the spectrum. The front of the bar consists mostly of floor-to-ceiling glass, whilst the side wall stretching the length of the bar incorporates panes of frosted and etched glass featuring water motifs. Even the lowered section of the bar stays illuminated by a set of large glass double doors which open out onto a quiet suntrap of a courtyard. Several corners house a TV showing sport, particularly the more genteel games such as cricket or golf, whilst those who like their sport in 80-90 minute slots are also catered for with a big screen projector.

The Atmosphere
Corney and Barrow certainly aspires to The City’s work hard play hard attitude, opening at 7.30am for breakfast and often not shutting its doors until midnight. The daytime mix of clientele, whilst featuring the odd tourist, predominantly consists of City workers whether there to discuss a deal away from a stuffy boardroom or just sneaking out of the office to share some gossip and a cheeky half.

The discernable lunchtime rush is testament to the quality of the food; however, it’s after 5pm that the atmosphere relaxes and the bar really gets busy. So much so, if you’re going with a large group it’s well worth booking a space. The City’s psychological 5 o’clock switch from work to play is reflected in the music with the BPM increasing steadily through a range of Motown, ‘60s and ‘70s tunes until contemporary dance breaks through and the bass lines stay loud and rapid. The bar’s biggest asset is the attitude and aptitude of their staff who are attentive yet not over-bearing and genuinely seem to want to make your experience the best one possible.

The Food
Corney and Barrow Old Board Street clearly take pride in their food, offering seasonal alternatives and responsibly sourced produce, whether it is a breakfast of organic smoked salmon served with scrambled eggs and muffins for £7.25 or a classic Full English for £8.75.

The lunch menu features a range of chunky sandwiches starting at £6.50 for thick cut granary slices featuring king prawns in a Marie Rose sauce on a bed of lettuce to a rib-eye steak ciabatta sandwich with a mustard mayonnaise and caramelised onions for around £10. More substantial dishes are also available. At £10.95 their own-recipe pork sausages and creamy mash with a red wine gravy is also a popular favourite. Or, assuming it’s pay day, a 28-day matured sirloin steak from grass-fed Scottish stock is available with a melt-in-the-mouth texture for £17.95, leaving the hand cut chips, portabello mushrooms and roasted tomato it is served with as a mere afterthought on your plate.

The evening menu features a slightly reduced list of the main lunch time meals with the addition of more sociable items such as sharing platters and bar snacks.

The Drink
As a wine bar in the Square Mile, it’s disappointing if unsurprising that Corney and Barrow Old Broad Street only offers one beer on tap, Pilsner Urquell at £3.90 a pint. Although they do offer a better range of bottled beers from around the world, including Modelo Especial, Kirin Ichiban, Hahn and Monteiths all for around £3.60-£4. Notably, Corney and Barrow also stock Bitburger Drive (£3.30), which at only 0.5% abv means you’ll be the least likely to embarrass yourself in front of colleagues.

Spirit lovers are catered for with a well-stocked bar of premium brands often blended perfectly into a range of cocktails starting at around £7.25 for a Sea Breeze, Moscow Mule or dry Martini. Although the Champagne cocktails are pricier at £11.75, it is certainly worth trying the Sloe Berry Fizz or the Bellini if you like your drinks with a bit of fizz.

As a wine merchant Corney and Barrow come into their own with their regularly updated wine list. Generally, a small glass of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot or Pinot Noir will set you back between £18-£30. The basic wine list is extensive. There is the additional temptation of dessert wines, ports, sherries, and cognacs as well as the Champagne menu.

The Last Word
Corney and Barrow Old Broad Street is an establishment that knows that doing simple things well makes all the difference. It serves to prove to the rest of London that even the stuffy Square Mile can let its hair down in style.

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