A sleek and slinky Japanese bar in Clerkenwell, Crane and Tortoise delivers a simple formula of great service and good food.

The Venue
Gray’s Inn Road, the corridor linking Chancery Lane and Kings Cross, holds plenty of average pubs, restaurants and the odd music venue, but nothing much in the way of fantastic far eastern fare. Not, that is, until the Crane and Tortoise opened.

The frontage is unremarkable and simple and, inside, it is orderly with clean lines. The spacious bar is not remotely mystical or intriguing like the name suggests. In fact, it rather resembles a non-descript London wine bar, lacking any Japanese clues apart for the menu. With black and white photos on the walls and highly buffed, tall leather chairs tucked into the tables, you could be in any minimal bar in the world.

The Atmosphere
The expertly trained staff are ever present to describe any Japanese peculiarities. Needless though this may be for the many nearby Japanese and international businessmen, they do offer a reassuring level of professionalism for the uninitiated. The bar is a popular after work drop in for small groups who fancy a pint of Asahi and a bite. There’s a screen showing sports without sound, which a bit odd, but it doesn't detract from the relaxed atmosphere.

Behind the dominant front bar is a smaller sit-down restaurant. Again it is sleek, but with a deathly quiet atmosphere it is not as comfortable as eating in the main room where the majority of the action takes place.

The Food
Rather than full-on feasts, food is petite and snack-like, though it’s not restricted to sushi. While there is better sashimi around, the cuts of tuna and salmon are reasonable value at £9 and £8 respectively. Tastier than the selection of rolls and sashimi is the colourful wakame and nori seaweed salad at £4.50, which is served on crushed ice with a peppery mustard dressing.

Hot mouthful-sized morsels are also well-represented. Sesame beef bites (£6.50) served medium are a touch dry, but nonetheless meaty and flavoursome. Somewhat meaty again is the shiitake mushroom rice (£3). Katsu curries and the obligatory teriyaki feature on the list too, all for reasonable prices, particularly if you manage to make the early £6 meal deal.

The Drink
Rather than an emphasis on food or drink, people feel comfortable dropping in for either. There’s plenty of high quality choice, not least a range of Suntory whiskies from £5 to £30 a measure, Ozeki and Karatanba sakes, traditionally served either hot or cold, and thick syrupy Kikkoman Umeshu plum wine (£5 for 50ml).

The cocktail making is where the real expertise lies though, and Crane and Tortoise serves one of the best takes on a mojito in central London. The Gray’s Inn Mojito at £7 crushes fresh plum pieces, lime, brown sugar and handfuls of mint together. The muddle is then shaken with shochu – the Japanese distilled spirit often likened to vodka – poured over broken ice and topped with plum wine.

The Last Word
A respectable after-work addition to the Gray’s Inn Road, Crane and Tortoise is a clean and cool setting for impressive drinks and decent Japanese good.

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