A cheerful venue on Battersea Rise, Mexi-Cuban venue Cucarachas is all about big portions and colourful cocktails.

The Venue
Located on Battersea Rise, a neighbourhood not short of competition, Cucarachas stands out thanks to its bright purple frontage. There’s a small porch in the front where you can eat outside, and once indoors the venue stretches far back. Inside you’re treated to a riotous mix of colours and kitschy decor, with gold, purple and red colours everywhere you look. It’s nice when a venue doesn’t take itself too seriously, which you can tell immediately from looking at the wall mural – in the Botticelli-esque scene, the central figure wears a ruffled dress and Carmen Miranda-style fruit hat.

The Atmosphere
Service is attentive, quick to catch on to small but important details like extra napkins or a finger bowl for sticky ribs. Although they only opened recently, Cucarachas is already attracting a steady local clientele, no doubt thanks to relatively inexpensive drinks and massive portions. They’re also a family-friendly venue and are currently running a promotion where kids eat for free.

The Food
There’s been a big trend recently in the capital for healthy Mexican food, but if it’s that you’re after you’d better head somewhere else. At Cucarachas (presumably named after the Mexican folk song, and not the near-indestructible insect) it’s all about refried beans, massive mounds of rice and plenty of meat – or, Tex-Mex, for the Mexican cuisine experts. A laminated two-sided menu features a list of classics like fajitas and burritos along with specialties and tapas-sized portions.

From the choice of starters, honey barbecued ribs (£4.95) is a large half rack portion, covered in a sweet, sticky sauce. The meat itself falls off the bone easily – it seems like it’s been pre-cut – but at less than a fiver you can’t complain. It also comes with a tangy mixed bean salad (yes, a starter with its own side salad!) and an strangely watery blue cheese dressing, which is unnecessary as there’s plenty of sauce. Prawns in garlic salsa (£5.95, also available as a tapas plate) is also good, with a surprisingly spicy tomato sauce that has a good depth of flavour. The prawns are plump and well cooked and the slices of garlic bread on the side are good for mopping up any extra sauce.

Chimichangas, a Tex-Mex classic, are available in chipotle chicken (£9.95), chipotle beef (£9.50) or veggie chilli (£8.95) varieties. The veggie version is commendable because, despite not containing meat, it’s clear that you’re not missing out. The veggies wrapped in a seeded tortilla and then deep fried, and served with fresh sour cream and a spicy guacamole, plus a huge mound of rice. Pollo a la Mexicana (£12.95) continues the big-is-beautiful theme with a large breast of chicken smothered in a sweet, smoky tomato sauce swimming with cheese, mushrooms and peppers. The bean salad makes another appearance, as does the mound of mixed rice. This dish is so large it’ll make you wish you didn’t order a starter!

If you have any room at all left, two classic Mexican desserts grace the menu. The tres leches cake is milky and sugary sweet, and there’s also a custard dish, which is served warm and sprinkled with cinnamon, almost like a rice pudding without the rice. Both are served with ice cream and fresh fruit.

The Drink
The drinks list is just as long as the menu and priced just as well, with most drinks at £6.95. The most expensive comes in at £7.95 but a large number of drinks are also available in pitchers to share for £21.95. Margaritas, daiquiris and mojitos all make an appearance, along with iced tea cocktails, ice cream cocktails, tequilas (including a mini bottle of Mezcal, complete with worm), sangria, wine (£3.95 a glass, £12.95 - £14.95 a bottle), Champagne, beer and shooters.

Credit goes to Cucarachas for an interesting list of non-alcoholic drinks but clearly the boozy choices are the most popular. The Very Berry, made with berry-infused vodka, crème de mure, cane sugar, lime and blackberries, is sugary yet tart, with big chunks of fruit. The Cuban Zombie, from the list of Cuban cocktails, is good for fans of theatrical drinks, as it arrives with a small fire gently flaming in a scooped out passion fruit skin. A mix of rum, Bacardi, apricot brandy, passion fruit and orange, lime and pineapple juices, it has a great kick that’s worth trying just for the taste, if not for the mini-campfire in the glass. The watermelon margarita is one of several fruit flavours – this one is served in a near fishbowl-sized martini glass; it’s a candyfloss pink and just as fluffy and sweet, with a wedge of watermelon on the side.

The Last Word
Healthy food is all well and good, but sometimes you just need some refried beans. And when the craving strikes and you’re south of the river, head to Cucarachas for some big portions and creative cocktails.

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