44 Red Lion Street,
Bloomsbury,
London,
WC1R 4PF
(020) 7831 6298
The ViewLondon Review
The Dolphin Tavern gives a masterclass in how to keep the dusty old local ticking over during these times of change.
The Venue
Dusty old local is certainly the description to begin with. The heavy green drapes over the windows of this smallish Holborn public house are even heavier with the dust that rests on them and this is just the start of it. The chipped paint on the facade, peels away from the square paned windows and looks to scare away the wrought iron and polished wood brigade. The Luncheon Voucher sticker in the window lends history to the dirty decor and the many jugs, pans and teapots appear not to have seen the moist breath of a can of Sheen since they were in full use.
The interior is certainly one of the simplest and cosiest that you’ll find around Bloomsbury. The wide booths are covered with a soft worn printed material that matches the carpet for allegiance with the fifties. Stalls around the windows give an excellent glimpse of Red Lion Street outside and the rest of the place seems to breathe in London with the heartbeat of the large wooden bar itself.
The Atmosphere
Containing quite a large share of offices that stretch up to the seventh storey, Red Lion Street gives the Dolphin a good flow of lunchtime and after work traffic. The music plays low and the talk reigns over all. There’s none of that creative chatter here, though, just snippets to be heard of jovial joking. Whatever goes on in the offices up and down the road, it seems to be left behind as the gang leaves the ranch and enters the Dolphin Tavern. The old wooden boards for walls and the collection of old pub-style paraphernalia keep the crowd honest, largely using time here to fill bodies with beer.
The Food
The menu fare is as simple and square as the Impact font that it is printed with. Sausage, chips and beans; ham, egg and chips; and chilli con carne are the highlights of the main meals that are printed along with the list of filled jacket potatoes and salads.
The Drink
The Dolphin is a place well trodden by the all day drinker. Bums have worn out seats as the continuous consumption weighs glutinous maximus into cushions. The main aid for this thirsty work is Heineken on draught and a choice of Adnams Broadside, Old Speckled Hen and Adnams Bitter. All are averagely priced at around £3.40 a pint.
The Last Word
The Dolphin Tavern needs not to morph with the times as its classic and comfortable interior makes it more than just an average old local.
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