With a sublime selection of beers, ciders and whiskies from around the world, the Draft House Northcote is every drinker’s dream - just don’t expect to be supping away in front of an open fire on a Chesterfield.

The Venue
Located at the more affluent end of Northcote Road, the Draft House is certainly something of a stroll away from its nearest train station, but what’s not ideal for out-of-towners turns out to be great for locals, with the pub situated conveniently between the residential areas of Clapham and Wandsworth. It finds itself in good company too, surrounded by artisan bread makers, independent delis and fancy looking butchers, and whilst the venue’s elegant and stylish exterior certainly fits in, inside, it doesn’t feel quite right. It’s not that it’s unpleasant - the large wooden bar; the walls adorned with classic magazine covers and adverts from yesteryear; the window seating; the pews to the rear and the friendly staff all help to make it inviting – it just feels a little bare. Primarily this is due to priority being strangely given to the (albeit excellent) food, with lurid, purple painted chairs sitting opposite simple tables adorned with cutlery, mustard and Tabasco. Consequently, it feels just a tiny bit like a cafe, whereas what you really want from ale heaven is a cosy place with a comfy sofa in the corner, an open fire and hanging hops.

The Atmosphere
Despite the design flaws, friendly staff set the tone for what’s a really welcoming place, with an inoffensive soundtrack of rockabilly, indie, The Beatles and pretty much anything else with a guitar pumped gently out the speakers. Weekday evenings see plenty of people nipping in for dinner but it’s Saturdays that are the real time to see it in full flow, packed to the rafters (if only there were some) with friendly locals starting with breakfast or brunch and being tempted to stay on well into the afternoon and evening, probably attempting to get through as many of those rarely seen beers on what’s an enticingly extensive menu.

The Drink
This is where the Draft House excels, bringing a varied, well-thought out selection of beers, ciders, spirits and wines to locals that should, if they have any sense, be very grateful indeed. There are sixteen ales on draught, and if that seems a little daunting then you might like the fact that you can get them served in third-pint measures, an ingenious reprisal of the nip glasses from days gone by. And they’ve even lined up some tasting selections for you, so you can order three nips of ale (£3.90), and get elegant, squeezed-tulip glasses filled with Wandles (light, quaffable, slightly hoppy); Junction (more robust with a spicy hop flavour, but equally drinkable); and Bitter and Twisted (fizzy, fruity with a touch of bitterness). It’s a great way to sample the impressive selection and means you don’t have to plump for a whole pint of Old Engine Oil only to find out that it may taste like a whole pint of old engine oil.

The spirits are nearly as impressive, with whiskies coming from all over the British Isles and North America, so expect everything from single malts to Bourbons and blends, including Johnny Walker Black Label (£3.25) which is very good value, and the Peat Monster (£3.25), which is, well, peaty. Alongside this healthy selection of whiskies lies four different tequilas, eight gins, six vodkas, eight rums and even two types of Calvados, meaning that whatever your particular tipple, you should be able to find it here.

The Food
With all those fine alcoholic beverages, it’s probably good to get some food in to ward off dribbling messiness. Happily, the Draft House fare is almost as impressive as the booze, with a good selection of classic dishes that are reasonably priced, well cooked and darn tasty. A very good place to start is with the ox tongue fritters (£5.50), five tender chunks of incredibly well-seasoned tongue with a golden crunchy coating, served with a very good horseradish and beetroot dip whose sharp tang complements the saltiness of the fritter in fine style. A little bowl of cornichon, pickled chilli peppers and mini olives, are a nice touch too.

Mains are great as well, with a Roquefort salad (£10.50) being particularly good. Generous amounts of good quality, crumbled cheese are joined by wilted baby spinach, crunchy green beans, a perfectly poached egg and crispy pancetta, all dressed with a drizzle of sweet balsamic reduction. Desserts are certainly worth trying too, not least the baked blueberry cheesecake (£4.00), a light and fluffy dessert with a perfect crunch to its sweet base. The blueberry flavour is prominent throughout the cheese, while big, plump baked blueberries are plonked on top, and a complementary raspberry sauce is served on the side.

The Last Word
Despite what feels like a missed opportunity with the decor, the Draft House Northcote is certainly worth a visit thanks to one of the best drink selections in the capital and some very tasty food. And if you did want to make the pilgrimage from further afield, the walk will be welcome – you’ll be happy to have worked up a thirst.

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