This picturesque and eccentric pub in a leafy Hampstead side street was feared lost as a real ale stalwart when the longstanding landlord retired, but is now very much back in action.

The Venue
Right next to the New End Theatre on one of those hilly Hampstead lanes, the red-painted and rather elegant Duke of Hamilton is curiously sited with the main bar on a raised platform over an extensive cellar. A regular in the Good Beer Guide, its future seemed uncertain in 2010, but it’s now in the hands of the same owners as the rather decent Barnsbury in Islington and remains committed to good beer. The new owners have spruced things up a bit in the single main drinking area arranged around a rectangular bar, but kept all the quirky essentials – the red paint, mirrors, and the unusual detailing on the bar, which includes stained glass and advertising tiles for long discontinued cleaning products. Notable improvements include the refurbishment and reopening of the cellar, an atmospheric space now used for overspill and entertainment, and a new beer garden at the back, a welcome extension of the outdoor seating from the small but delightful raised front terrace.

The Atmosphere
This is a relaxed place tucked away off the tourist trail; it attracts a laid-back mix of locals, visitors in the know and ale devotees. But don’t forget you’re in Hampstead next door to one of London’s most established fringe theatres, so expect to hear a few booming, well-supported voices and stage school accents and even to spot a famous face or two. Pierce Brosnan, Lisa Stansfield, Sylvester McCoy, David Bedford and Jon Culshaw have been known to pop in and the late Oliver Reed was once a fixture. A dartboard, poker and quiz nights, occasional live music and other events downstairs, outdoor barbecues and the odd sports screening add to the community buzz.

The Food
This is restricted to filled rolls and snacks like sausage rolls and Scotch eggs, the latter enjoying considerable renown among the regulars.

The Drink
The pub has been listed in the Good Beer Guide for 20 years, and also has CAMRA LocAle accreditation for selling local beers – Fuller’s London Pride is now usually supplemented by a beer from Brodie’s or another London brewer, at good value prices for the area (from £2.80 a pint). Up to three additional real ales (usually including a lighter and a darker option) may well feature a small brewer that's hard to find in London. German dark lager Köstritzer Schwarzbier is an unusual keg offering alongside Bitburger pils, and a handful of top quality bottles come from Belgium, Germany and the UK. The reasonable wine list is 16 strong, with 10 available by the glass (from £3 a small glass).

The Last Word
Hampstead has numerous great pubs and good beer venues, but the Duke of Hamilton fills a welcome niche among them as an unpretentious and inexpensive real ale haven. Great that it’s still around, and flourishing.

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