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The Londoner's Guide to London
24 July 2008
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E and O

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14 Blenheim Crescent,
Notting Hill,
London,
W11 1NN

0871 971 6506 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byjohn gough21/04/2008
Catering to everyone from Stella McCartney and Madonna to the moneyed Notting Hill masses, E and O is always bustlingly busy but never compromises on the quality of its varied pan-Asian menu or intoxicating cocktails.

The Venue
Located on Blenheim Crescent, on the corner of Kensington Park Road in Notting Hill, E and O (Eastern and Oriental) is just off Portobello Road - a five minute walk from either Ladbroke Grove or Notting Hill Gate underground stations.

The building is black and white, and its occupier is identified by bright red signage, adorned with a few outside tables for the summer months and smokers. Once inside, you enter straight into the inadequate bar area, which is tiny and usually heaving with people sipping cocktails and nibbling dim sum. If you carry on through you enter the restaurant area where space is still at a premium with tables packed tightly together in a nod to Japanese efficiency. The decor is simple and minimalist with clean lines, woods so dark they appear almost black, white table linen, and shiny stainless steel surfaces.

The Atmosphere
Stepping into E and O gives you a taste of Manhattan life: glamorous people are on every corner with supermodels, A-listers and rich W11 locals all enjoying the pan-Asian food and, even more importantly, the self-satisfied feeling of being able to get a table at one of the busiest venues in town.

However, the Americans remain streets ahead in terms of customer service, which can sometimes be lacking here. The staff can be a little crisp, which is acceptable if coupled with efficiency but don’t be too surprised to find yourself waiting for your wine glass to be topped up.

The Food
The menu at E and O offers dim sum, tempura and curries. Dim sum is a good option in the bar area or if you’re hoping for the more social experience of sharing food. Choose the prawn dumplings, priced at £6.50. They’re light, fluffy, and flavoured with a mild chive flavour that doesn’t overpower the prawn. The crispy duck is also particularly noteworthy - it’s been flash fried long enough to make the outside sticky and shiny and costs about £6. Two other great choices are the chilli-salt squid (£6.50) and the baby spare ribs (£5.50). The dim sum is all generously portioned and three or four dishes would be sufficient for a decent lunch for two people.

If you want to go for main courses, the blackened cod - made famous by rival Nobu - is flaky and meaty with shitake mushroom sauce on the side (the perfect accompaniment to add moisture). It costs a competitive £8.50 and adding rice or pak choi only costs and extra £3-£4. The chicken and lychee green curry (£12.50) is a slightly spicy option that isn’t overpowering, and the lychee is an excellent, cooling addition to this traditional Thai dish.

Unusually for a pan-Asian restaurant, the portions are generous and filling, but if you save room for dessert the vanilla and lemongrass creme brulee is amazing. The crispy top shatters like glass to reveal a creamy, rich dessert underneath, flavoured with tiny vanilla pods and strands of lemongrass. Desserts cost about £5.

The Drink
E and O offers a wine list of over 100 wines, but you’ll enjoy your night far more if you plump for the exciting cocktails. The ginger and pear martini is strong with the ginger flavours a great accompaniment to dim sum, as is the pear caipirinha, with rather too much rum for more than one or two. The cocktails could be more generously sized, but they only cost £6 or £7 so ordering a few won’t cost any more than a decent bottle of wine.

The Last Word
It could be said that E and O is more about style than substance, and it probably is true that many of the customers are here to spot the A-listers, but that would overlook the inexpensive, top-notch food and inventive drinks menu. Long after the media types move on, this place will continue packing in a loyal crowd who just come for the great food.
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