A neglected pub in a prime location that’s been made over marvellously by the Barworks chain into their flagship beer specialist, the Exmouth Arms also offers a friendly welcome, tapas-style dining and surrealist art.

The Venue
Given its top spot in the middle of now-fashionable Exmouth Market – which was named after the pub, rather than the other way round – it’s surprising it’s taken so long to do something with this landmark, which for years was a failing pub with a grim reputation. New owners Barworks spent three months working on the place before reopening it in November 2011, including stripping off the black exterior cladding and restoring the magnificent green-tiled façade that commemorates its days as a Courage boozer.

Inside, sadly, the original features have long gone except for a now-unused fireplace, but the modern environment is a pleasant one. The single ground floor bar has dark green and maroon walls, simple wooden furniture, bare floorboards and a few diner-style booths. Original surrealist art depicting peculiar human-animal hybrids in Victorian engraving style provide a talking point. Upstairs an L-shaped space with its own bar is furnished in similar style.

The Atmosphere
Barworks is best known for trendy, clubby places like the Electricity Showrooms in Hoxton and you can see the Exmouth Arm’s appeal to the arty and fashionable types who patronise the market’s independent shops. But the venue still honours its pub heritage in welcoming a wide cross section of the community – elderly gents pop in to enjoy their pints of real ale on an afternoon while chilled out indie music plays gently on the sound system. Seating on the street outside is a real boon when the sun shines on the market. There’s also a Monday night quiz and comedy events and the upstairs space is bookable for functions.

The Food
A shortish but interesting menu is built around “sliders” – small portions that sell at £2.50 each or £5.95 for a plate of three. There’s a breakfast slider with choices like portobello mushroom and quail egg Florentine with free coffee, while choices for later in the day might include rump steak, lamb and feta patty, teriyaki salmon or toasted goat’s cheese. Also offered is a choice of two salads at £4.50 each (fennel, asparagus and pecorino for example) and a Sunday roast.

The Drink
Other Barworks venues have a few interesting beer choices and it’s a sign of the growing interest in quality beer in the capital that they’ve pushed this to the fore at the Exmouth Arms. Four cask ales constantly change though a local beer from Redemption is usually available alongside choices from the likes of Brewsters, Harviestoun, Thornbridge or Titanic. A dozen keg taps include several Camden Town beers alongside BrewDog, German wheat beers and lagers and changing US imports like Great Divide. A list of around 70 bottled beers is very strong, with choice British beers from Dark Star, Kernel, Thornbridge and Traquair alongside imports that range from established classics (Orval, Schlenkerla smoked beer) to contemporary US craft beers from Bear Republic or Left Hand.

Besides beer there are 11 decent wines by the glass (250ml glasses start at £4.50) and some specialist whiskies and other spirits.

The Last Word
Another great example of a reinvented drinking house that is thoroughly contemporary while remaining a recognisable London pub with great beer at its heart, the Exmouth Arms is now a credit to its surroundings once again.

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