When a pub has a refit, it is understandable that people might be a bit wary of what it might become. But when Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi of Hibiscus is involved, as he is at the Fox and Grapes, there’s a great expectation allied with genuine excitement about the potential of this reinvented boozer.

The Venue
As it’s located on Wimbledon Common, the transport links for non-locals are quite limited. Wimbledon station is the nearest stop and you need to hike up to the Village and then some to arrive. On first glance, it feels like you have arrived at a country pub as there are wellies outside and dogs popping in and out. However, when you go inside it feels as if you have stepped into a rustic restaurant.

The front part has a big airy ceiling and you can see striking wooden beams. Dangling delicately from above are glass light fixtures that are shaped like grapes - they look stunning. The bar is in the middle of the venue and you can sit around it on the posh leather bar chairs and enjoy a well earned drink. There’s even a brass bell to signify last orders - a lovely touch.

Diners reside at the back. It is cosier here, as the ceilings are very low. The tables are pale green and it is still as relaxed as the front part.

The Atmosphere
The two different parts of the establishment mean that the vibe varies in each. The front, where people drink, is lively and quite jovial; the back, however, is more restrained. The staff are a credit to the Fox and Grapes and they are an essential element in the smooth running of this operation. They ooze professionalism, are very well dressed and remarkably knowledgeable. They are on hand to make sure you have a fuss-free and relaxing evening. Expect to find affluent locals and the occasional friendly dog here too.

The Food
When big names are involved, you expect big things and fortunately Bosi lives up to his reputation with the standard of food served here. The menu is seasonal and traditionally British and, although it seems a little pricey, it is absolutely worth it.

Starters include ox liver pate (£7.50), which has an intensely meaty flavour, but is actually surprisingly light in consistency. The accompanying pickles add complexity and complement it well. The brown crab (£8.50) is similar to potted crab and is again of an excellent quality. Like the pate, it is a very light dish, with a citrus twist, making it a stunning starter.

The mains are equally as impressive and have interesting dishes like ox tripe (£13.50), rib of beef for two (£52), pork belly (£14) and chicken kiev (£14). The pork belly may well be the best you’ve ever had. It has a beautifully crisp top with perfectly tender pork beneath and it falls apart with ease. Also, the chicken kiev is brilliant, with an intense garlic flavour, a crisp breaded coating and a deliciously creamy leek sauce.

The Drink
This is where your visit can get a bit expensive. Even though the wine menu is filled with a wealth of interesting wines, the house starts at a startling £18/£19. There are a few wines by the glass, but only available in 175ml for £5.50 and above. Having said that, if you do like wine and you don’t mind splashing out, there are a lot to choose from. For the reds the South African Reneyke (£31) has notes of blackberries and is a suitably discerning tipple to have in the surroundings.

For those who want to celebrate with a glass of bubbly, the house is Pierre Gerbais (£8.50/£47) but a bit extra allows you to sample the delightful Billecart Salmon (£55) and Billecart Salmon Rose (£88).

Guinness, Amstel and Kronenbourg can be found on tap, alongside three ales such as Doom Bar or Black Sheep. Pints hover around the £4 mark.

The Last Word
It is undeniable that the food at the Fox and Grapes is exceptional. At present it feels more like a restaurant than a pub, but there are plans to invest in a projector screen for sport and a sound system so that music can be played. These are the sort of things to help build atmosphere throughout the day and make this new foodie destination, an all-day local, too.

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