Franklins pleasantly surprises with the quality of its simple dishes, strong regional offerings and an uncommonly loyal following.

The Venue
Nearing the end of Lordship Lane's spate of boutiques and specialists, Franklins is a gastropub confidently located on a corner across the street from the highbrow farm shop of the same name.

There isn't much room for the five or so smaller cafe tables and the huge comfortable, butcher-like table in the narrow front room. But the unusually high bar has a row of gracefully crafted, single column, cast iron barstools. Or you can plan on sharing the largest seating arrangement with a few other drinkers. In the afternoon there is a peace about the place, a sanctuary that involves sunlight, newspapers and a tall pint. A few modern art paintings depicting Dulwich neighbourhoods and nearby bus lines in emotive abstract creates a vivid atmosphere without overwhelming the subtle nature of the decor. Following the bar to the rear, the dining room opens up into a warm, candlelit space with white table cloths and ornate mirrors. Golden brick, blonde wood and a sea algae palette sets the dining area apart from the bar. An expansive window and the light-reflecting, high-gloss ceiling helps the space feel larger than it is. Inset lights, uncluttered by fixtures, keeps the tidy space airy.

The Atmosphere
There are no televisions to distract your attention and, as you settle in, the bar staff amiably suggest you pull up and have a look at the menu. Daytime yields patrons lingering over drinks while the dining area consists of business acquaintances and groups of friends looking for a quiet conversation and an exceptional meal. Franklins does brisk business for lunch (a two course set menu can be had for £13), but the staff never seem harried nor rushed and the space never feels overwhelmed.

Evening can be quite different. You may be hard pressed to find a seat among the thirtysomethings savouring the wine and bar snacks, but Franklins reaches full capacity with an air of elegance and without the rowdiness of other pubs on the lane.

The Food
The menu changes daily, depending on seasonal availability of local produce. But a few standbys can almost always be counted on. The rabbit liver terrine (£7.00) is wrapped in bacon and enriched with pork, pistachio nuts, garlic and fresh Italian herbs. It has a lingering essence of spring onion and is served with jammy, homemade, roasted green tomato chutney which is the colour of black pudding. The popular vegetarian option of cauliflower cutlet and wild mushrooms (£13.00) is savoury and surprisingly hearty. The vegetable has enough texture to carve into, the wild mushrooms lend a delightful smokiness and the enveloping cheese does not drown out the almost hazelnut sweetness of the florets.

The Drink
There are two real ale firkins which sell out briskly. Shepherd Neame offerings like the orange and apricot flavour Winter Warmer or the fennel and cane sugar Amber Ale (£3) have been past opportunities. The lager taps include Guinness (none of that extra cold nonsense), Beck's Vier, Meantime Pale Ale, spicy Licher Hefeweizen, Aspall's Suffolk Cider, and the sweet straw and corn tasting Bitburger. Franklins also has a tidy array of French wines including the Bouquet de Nos Vignes (£3.50 a glass) with lychee and starfruit flavours, hints of lime and a mild pine-like acidity on the finish and the Domaine la Bastide Syrah (£4) with intense blackcurrant fruit and a silken smidge of licorice.

The Last Word
The front of house is small, there are only a few tables and even fewer tables on the pavement, but one can expect a surprisingly elegant gastronomic experience at Franklins.

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