Arguably London’s most historically important pub building, the National Trust-owned George Inn is the capital’s last surviving 17th century galleried inn, familiar to Dr Johnson and Charles Dickens. Inevitably a tourist magnet, but with good reason, it offers a satisfactory choice of Greene King beer and food.

The Venue
The George Inn is so rich in heritage you could write a book about it – indeed beer writer Pete Brown is in the process of doing just that. For much of the city’s existence, London Bridge was the only fixed crossing point, linking to the main roads to Kent, the Channel ports and the south coast, so Borough High Street became lined with inns and taverns serving travellers to and from the City. The big inns, like the Tabard where Chaucer’s pilgrims assembled, were set back from the road in their own yards: many of these yards survive, but of the inns, only the George remains, rebuilt in 1676 after a serious fire. It’s much reduced in size: its distinctive architecture, with wooden galleries lining the upper floors, would once have extended around three sides of the courtyard, but only the south wing still stands.

There’s plenty of space in the remarkable interior, which boasts numerous unspoilt wood panelled rooms including some remaining original fittings. The first room on the right as you enter the yard is the most authentic, and the glassed off servery further along is also intriguing, with a (sadly disused) Victorian beer engine that resembles a cash register. The courtyard provides plentiful outdoor seating.

The Atmosphere
Inevitably the pub attracts plenty of guidebook-clutching tourists, and so it should, but pleasingly it’s still operated as a proper pub and you’d feel happy going for an after-work drink here. The surroundings generate an atmosphere more authentic than in a pub cluttered with fake heritage. There’s occasional acoustic music, and the courtyard becomes a focus in fine weather, with barbecues, Morris dancing and open air performances of plays by William Shakespeare, who worked nearby and might conceivably have drunk here.

The Food
A decent range of pub grub is offered, with understandable emphasis on solid British fare: prices are at a slight premium without reaching into cynical tourist rip-off territory. Beer-battered fish and chips, beef and ale pie and sausage and mash are £9-£10; veggie options include roasted vegetable pie (£8.25). Ciabatta sandwiches, sharing platters (including a cheeseboard supplied by nearby Neal’s Yard Dairy) and salads are also served.

The Drink
The pub is leased by the National Trust to Greene King and stocks six of the brewery’s cask ales, including IPA, Abbot, London Glory and the occasional guest from better known breweries. The house beer, George Inn Ale, is actually a rebadged Morland Original Bitter. Not an especially interesting beer offer, but relatively well kept, and bottled Budvar and Vedett are other possibilities. There’s also a decent range of pub wines including several by the bottle.

The Last Word
You might not want to make it your local, but the George Inn remains a must-see venue for its extraordinary heritage, and given that this in itself would pull the crowds, the beer, service and atmosphere aren’t bad at all.

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